Maryland Mass Transit Administration (MTA) (tel: (410) 539 5000; website: www.mtamaryland.com), operates a Light Rail system, a Metro Subway, buses and the MARC (Maryland Area Rail Commuter) between Baltimore and Washington, DC. Day Passes are available, giving unlimited local bus, Light Rail and Metro Subway access. Those 65 years and older can ride for about a third of the cost on the local bus, Light Rail and Metro Subway, and approximately half fare on the MARC Train service.

The Light Rail connects the centre to the northern and southern suburbs and offers service to BWI Marshall Airport and Amtrak's Baltimore Penn Station. It operates at street level, crossing several bodies of water by bridge. It stops at the plush Mount Vernon district, Lexington Market area and the cultural area around Cathedral Street and Oriole Park. Buy your ticket from a vending machine before boarding.

The 14 station Metro Subway runs from the Owings Mills corporate and shopping complex through the heart of Downtown Baltimore's business, shopping and sightseeing districts to world-renowned Johns Hopkins Hospital. The metro is clean and fast, if limited. Alight at Lexington Market or Charles Center to walk to the Inner Harbor area. Buy a ticket from a vending machine before boarding.

Buses run frequently, providing an easy means of seeing the city. Pay exact fare as you board.

Taxis can be hailed on the street, boarded from ranks and booked by phone. Grab a Yellow Cab (tel: (410) 752 1096) or Atwater Cab (tel: (410) 682 2100), both of which use meters. Tips of 15% are generally expected.

Use Ed Kane's Water Taxis to see the whole Inner Harbor area (tel: (410) 563 3901 or 1 800 658 8947; website: www.thewatertaxi.com). It's rather like a bus service, serving 17 landing points, and is great fun. From April to the end of September, the water taxis go out to Fort McHenry National Monument. Normal service runs 1100-1800 in winter and 1000-2000 in the busier months. Buy a well-priced all day unlimited pass. Private hourly hire can be arranged for groups.

Don't drive in the Downtown area if you can avoid it; the one-way system is tricky and parking is both expensive and difficult. Metered street parking requires plenty of ‘quarters' (25 cents); time per quarter decreases as you get closer to the centre. Some locations limit stay to an hour - others give up to four hours; less central spots can be used for up to 10 hours. To save hassle, save your car for out-of-the-way and out-of-town attractions.

At traffic lights, unless otherwise specified, a right turn on red is permitted after making a complete stop. At crossroads with no lights, the car to the right has the 'right of way'. At a junction, a flashing amber light means ‘be prepared to stop'. A flashing red means ‘stop' and proceed on a first-come, first-go basis. Cars must stop for all pedestrians crossing the street.

Foreign driving licences are valid as long as they are in English. If your own insurance policy doesn't cover driving abroad, make sure you take out optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver). Minimum driving ages range from 21 to 25 depending on the company.

Most of the major companies are available: Alamo (tel: (410) 859 8092 airport or 1 800 462 5266; website: www.alamo.com); Avis (tel: (410) 859 1680 airport or 1 800 577 1521; website: www.avis.com); Budget (tel: (410) 691 2913 airport or 1 800 314 7934; website: www.budget.com); Dollar (tel: (866) 434 2226 airport or 1 800 800 3665; website: www.dollar.com); Hertz (tel: (410) 684 7900 airport or 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com); National (tel: (410) 859 8092 airport or 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com); and Thrifty (tel: (410) 283 0898 airport or (410) 783 0302 downtown or 1 800 847 4389; website: www.thrifty.com).

Cyclists will enjoy the Gwynns Falls Trail - a unique urban biking (and hiking) route. Light Street Cycles, 1015 Light Street (tel: (410) 685 2234; website: www.lightstcycles.com) hires out bicycles and organises guided group rides, but is closed on Sunday.