Nightlife, in the sense that most people understand the term, arrived comparatively late in Norway. For centuries, family life was the lynchpin of Norwegian society, and people tended to socialise at home. Draconian alcohol controls, including a form of prohibition in the early 20th century, did not encourage going out. Since the late 1980s though, with relaxation of drinking laws, it became possible to drink until 0200. Many pubs and clubs opened to take advantage of the change in legislation.

A publication called What's On in Oslo has the most comprehensive venue listings and is free from hotel foyers and tourist offices, but a good first port of call is Rosenkrantz gate, a street teeming with bars, music pubs and other nightspots. Many nightclubs are located on and around Karl Johans gate. Oslo nightlife is generally relaxed, with neat smart-casual clothing good for everywhere but the most expensive restaurants.

Drinking alcohol in Norway is still, however, a prohibitively expensive business. The minimum drinking age is 18 years for beer and wine and 20 years for spirits. The national drink is akevitt, a fiery spirit flavoured with herbs. Many Norwegians go out late on Fridays and Saturdays after a vorspiel (pre-party) involving drinks at home, so the street atmosphere from 2200 on the weekends can be lively, to say the least.

Bars: The Dubliner, Rådhusgata 28, is a typical 'Irish' themed bar, as is the Kilkenny Inn, Øvre Slottsgate. Similarly, the Scotsman, Karl Johans gate, is popular with expats and visitors and also offers the adjacent Angus Steakhouse. English is more often spoken than Norwegian at The Belfry, Lille Grensen 7. A recent arrival in town is an Australian theme pub, Down Under, in Fridtjof Nansens plass. In summer, there is a choice of open-air bar/restaurants along the quaysides of Aker Brygge, in front of Akershus Festning. But again these tend to stretch the traveller's budget somewhat. Stravinsky, Rosenkrantzgate 17, is a swanky venue for those who don't mind a bit of 'clubbing' thrown in - there is a disco night every Wednesday. The Kristiania Bar and Café, right by the central station in Jernbanetorget, is a cavernous and rather elegant venue that gets absolutely packed on Friday and Saturday evenings. For a more relaxed evening head to the 21st floor Summit Bar in the Radisson SAS Scandinavia Hotel, where you can sup on a cocktail whilst taking in the panoramic views of the fjords and city.

Clubs: Skansen, Rådhusgate 25 (website: www.skansen.no), is known as a 'real' house venue, and although relatively small, hosts international DJs on a regular basis. Sikamikanico, in Møllergate, offers a choice of house, techno and similar music genres. Pure Liquid, Christian IVs gate 12, reopened in June 2006 after a costly refurbishment and offers two and a half floors of extremely trendy nightclub action with sophisticated DJs and bartenders. Tiger Tiger, Torggata 5, has become rapidly popular with the mainstream clubbing crowd. Also worth seeking out is Stratos, on the 11th floor of Folketeaterbygningen, Youngstorget 2 (website: www.stratos.as), a club and restaurant with great views of all parts of Oslo.

Live Music: Stortorvets Gjæstgiveri, Grensen 1, is a lively traditional jazz joint featuring ragtime and New Orleans-style bands. Blå, Brenneriveien 9 (website: www.blx.no), down by the river Akerselva, is by many considered the best jazz club in Oslo. Herr Nilsen Jazzklubb, CJ Hambros plass 5 (website: www.herrnilsen.no) is also very good. One of the best venues for blues music in Europe is located in the very heart of Oslo and is appropriately called Muddy Waters, Grensen 13 (website: www.muddywaters.no). Those who prefer rock music can head downstairs to the rock club Rock Bottom. Oslo Spektrum, Sonia Henies Plass 2 (website: www.oslospektrum.no), is where all the visiting international big names play. Skuret Kulturpub, Christian Krohgs gate 2 (website: www.skuret.no), offers a regular programme of rock bands and music-related quiz nights. Smuget, Rosenkranzgate 22, is one of the most active music clubs in Europe.