Invaded by Arabs, Normans and others, Palermo, Sicily's capital city, has been the fortunate victim of a series of benefactors over the centuries. The end result is a jumbled mass of architecture that creates a city that seems to alter with every turn - Arab domes merge into Norman cathedrals whilst 19th-century theatres square up to imposing baroque churches.

Palermo has released itself from the dubious connections of its past (the Mafia links and the nightly curfews of the early 1990s) to become Sicily's most popular city. Split by the gargoyle-decorated Quattro Canti, there are four main areas to explore - El Capo, La Kalsa, La Vucciria and Albergheria, each with its own attractions awaiting exploration.

Churches, catacombs and markets await - and if they're not enough, day trips to the beach or up into the hilly countryside can easily be arranged. More cathedrals surround the city, in Monreale and Cefalù, both with their own set of Byzantine mosaics.

The Phoenician conquest marked the start of Palermo's long and eventful history, with Arab, Norman and Swabian dominations following. The Arabs contributed a great deal to the city's growth and left indelible traces of their civilisation, notably in the architecture and in the urban layout of the city. Centuries later, the Normans made Palermo the capital city of the Kingdom of Sicily, which achieved its height under Roger II, a ruler fond of beauty who encouraged the development of the Sicilian arts and economy.