The city centre is actually surprisingly compact and the Métro system makes getting around fairly easy. A good way for first time arrivals to get an idea of how Paris fits together is to take a cruise on the River Seine or ascend the Eiffel Tower and take in a sweeping view of the city. With so much to see, time management is crucial and many people choose to concentrate on one or two of the arrondissements (districts).

The nostalgic should wander around the mansions of the Marais district, past the Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné, 3rd; Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4th, and Place des Vosges, home to the Maison de Victor Hugo.

Those interested in modern art and design should opt for the Centre Georges Pompidou, place Beaubourg, 4th; Jean Nouvel's Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 5th; or the Grande Arche de la Défense with its high-speed glass lift offering a spectacular view of Paris.

The Grande Arche, which lies along the same geographical axis as Napoleon's Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, was built a century and a half later. This incongruity (the modern city juxtaposed with the old) is all part of the charm of Paris.

Paris overflows with museums, ranging from the vast collections of the Louvre to the small and quirky - such as the Musée des Arts Forains, 53 avenue des-Terroires-de-France, 12th, a shrine to fairground art, with something for everyone scattered through the metropolitan area. The Musée du Quai Branly, 37 quai Branly, 7th, was opened to much fanfare in 2006 and has been an instant success.

Repeat visitors to Paris usually end up uncovering something new, such as the rejuvenated Bercy district to the east with its green spaces, popular bars and development buzz or Belleville, with its grungy cosmopolitanism and ethnic restaurants.

Another popular attraction is Paris Plage in summer when the car takes a back seat and the city's citizens relax by the Seine amidst a world of sand and deckchairs.

Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
25 rue des Pyramides
Tel: 0892 683 000.
Website: www.paris-touristoffice.com
Opening hours: (Jun-Oct) daily 0900-1900; (Nov-May) Mon-Sat 1100-1900, Sun 1000-1900.

Further tourist offices are located at the Gare de Lyon, 20 boulevard Diderot, 12th (open Mon to Sat 0800-1800), Gare du Nord, 18 rue de Dunkerque, 10th (open 0800-1800), Opera, 11 rue Scribe, 9th (open 0900-1830), Eiffel Tower (open daily 1100-1840 May to Sep).

The Museum Pass (www.museums-of-paris.com) allows free unlimited access to more than 70 museums and monuments in the Paris region, including the Arc de Triomphe, Musée National du Louvre, Musée d'Orsay and Musée Rodin. The two-, four- or six-day pass is for sale from tourist offices, participating museums and monuments, the main métro stations and FNAC stores. It allows visitors to bypass queues but does not provide free admission to special or temporary exhibitions.