Prague Excursions
Vyšehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vyšehrad, 3km (2 miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence challenged the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that, in the 11th and 12th centuries, Vyšehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo-gothic (1880s) church of sv Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the facade still has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Vyšehrad Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics - an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvorák and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vyšehrad itself, located on Neklanova and Rasínovo nábře˛í, are villas designed by the architect Josef Chochol, whose designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism.
Vyšehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels). Vyšehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnosti 159 (tel: 2414 10348; website: www.praha-vysehrad.cz), provides further information.
Troja (Trojský Zámek): Prague's only chateau, Troja (tel: 2838 51614), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I's victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May to October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Nádra˛í Holešovice, or by a pleasant half-hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000-1800 (April to October), and Saturday and Sunday 1000-1700 (November to March). There is an admission charge (free on the first Tuesday of the month).
Prague Zoo is near Troja (tel: 2961 12111; website: www.zoopraha.cz).
For a Whole Day
Kutná Hora: Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutná Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boomtown economy developed and, until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent-like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners' guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrádek in Barborská Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines.
Kutná Hora's main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec - linked to Prague by trains from Hlavní nádra˛í or fast trains from Masasykov nádra˛í, on Wilsonova at the eastern end of Hybernská. Visitors must change onto the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from Prague, which leaves from outside metro ˇelivského.
Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located 3km (2 miles) northeast of the Kutná Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary (kostnice) on Zámecká. The graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindřich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium, and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870, they commissioned a woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed.
The Tourist Information Office, Palackého námìstí 377 (tel: 3275 12378; website: www.kutnahora.cz), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutná Hora, Sankturin House, Palackého námìstí 377 (tel: 3275 15556; website: www.kutnohorsko.cz), provide further information.
Cesky Krumlov: This idyllic Bohemian town stakes a fair claim to being the most attractive in the country. UNESCO rated it so highly that it featured second in importance on their World Heritage list behind Venice, and with good reason. Cesky Krumlov was badly damaged by the floods a few years ago, but it is now largely back to its best. This sleepy town curls around the Vltava river in a swish of churches, old town houses and a picture-postcard-perfect castle, which hangs high above the scene.
The compact old town is every bit as appealing as any part of Prague with plenty of cosy cafes and bars where visitors can relax. Other attractions include visiting one of the largest castle complexes in the country, once home to the mighty Rozemberk dynasty. Its pastel pink tower brings a touch of drama to the rather more austere facade, and regular tours run around the interior. Tours also explore the local Eggenberg Brewery, which produces wonderful beer. There is little else to do, which is part of the charm, bar lazing by the river, or taking a boat out and idling beneath the ramparts of that dramatic castle. The town comes alive with the Cesky Krumlov International Music Festival in July.
Regular trains leave from Prague's main station and there are also bus services from the Czech capital. Note that walking from the train station is quite a trawl into the Old Town. The Tourist Information Office, Namesti Svornosti 1 (tel: 3807 04621; website: www.ckrumlov.cz) has plenty of information on Cesky Krumlov and can also book canoe and boat trips on the Vltava.
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