Shopping in Prague can be frustrating or rewarding, depending on the approach taken. Western chains and large stores around Václavské námìstí do not offer bargains and shoppers should seek out the smaller shops to browse and patronise the cafes when it all becomes too much.

Czech crystal and glassware are superb and often extremely good value. There are enough shops for one to spend an entire day on this alone. Cheap Czech crystal jewellery can be found throughout the city. Czech garnets are considered the world's best. Granat, Dlouhá 28, Prague 1, are the specialists. Amber (jantar) can also be found for bargain prices, however, shoppers should stick to the Baltic variety - Russian shops sell a far more brittle and over-priced variety. Even in the markets it is possible to find beautiful and unique wood and ceramic pieces.

The early post-Revolution days, when exquisite pieces of art nouveau Daum and Loetz glass or a set of duelling pistols could be purchased at one-sixth of their value are long gone, but antiques can still be good purchases. Jan Hunek Starozitnosti, Pařížská 1, Prague 1, sells beautiful Czech glass from the 18th century to 1930s art deco. Alma, Vamentinská 7, Prague 1, specialises in porcelain, lace and folk costumes. Away from the centre, bazars (glorified junk shops) occasionally turn up real finds. Time is needed for one to search them out but the rewards can be worthwhile. Antiquarian books and prints remain good buys but prices are rising. Antikvariát Galerie Mùstek, 28 Října 13/Národní 40, Prague 1, and Antikvariát Karel Krenek, Celetná 31, Prague 1, both offer an excellent selection. Antikvariát Pařížska, Pařížska 8, Prague 1, specialises in prints and maps from the 16th to 19th centuries. 

Classical music CDs are often very low in price. The best selections are at Bonton Megastore, Palác Koruna, Václavské námìstí 1, Prague 1, and Bontonland (Supraphon), Jungmannova 20, Prague 1. Supraphon, the privatised state recording company, draws on a wealth of stunning Czech music in its archives (website: www.supraphon.cz).

Shop opening hours vary widely but are generally Monday to Friday 0800-1000 and 1700-2000 and Saturday 1000-1400. Many tourist shops and larger stores remain open all day including Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Most areas of the city have at least one 24-hour food shop. Almost everything closes on public holidays.

Most markets only sell food and their hours generally correspond to standard shopping hours. The best markets for crafts, hand embroidery, leather goods and charming wooden toys are Havelská, Prague 1, and the craft stalls in Staromìstské námìstí. Christmas Markets throughout December are excellent for gifts but visitors should beware of the professional pickpockets and the strength of the hot grog.

Goods must be removed from the Czech Republic within 30 days of purchase in order for visitors from non-EU countries to claim a tax refund of around 14%. Bills must be confirmed at the border or at the Duty Free Tax desk of the Customs Office in the Departure Hall (Terminal North) of Ryzyne airport upon departure. Actual VAT refunds can be claimed in a number of ways from Global Refund (website: www.globalrefund.com).