Volcan Arenal, La Fortuna, Costa Rica
© Creative Commons / Wha'ppen
Getting around in Costa Rica
SANSA (www.flysansa.com) operates services between San José and provincial towns and tourist resorts, including Tortuguero, Tamarindo, Quepos and Golfito. A bus is provided from the airline offices in San José to the airport. SANSA's main rival is Nature Air (www.natureair.net), which is considered to have more reliable service and has identical routes. Both use a variety of aircraft carrying up to 35 passengers, but Nature Air’s planes are slightly bigger. A number of companies also provide internal charter flights using small planes.
Much of Costa Rica is riddled with atrocious roads, so if you can afford to fly then it will make your life a lot more comfortable. Bear in mind, however, that flights almost always go through San Jose, so unless you’re going that way anyway, you’ll have to change.
Costa Rican domestic airline Nature Air (www.natureair.com/nature-air-pass.aspx) offers air passes for either a fortnight or a month, allowing unlimited flights in that time for a set price. It’s a good opportunity, given that many roads in Costa Rica are rough or mountainous.
Approx US$1.
The quality of the roads in Costa Rica is, for the most part, not great. Stretches of the Pan-American Highway leading to and from the major cities tend to be okay, but the rest is a mix of dust, gravel, potholes and perilously mountainous roads. Be very careful driving – especially if you’re in a hire car and want to get your deposit back – and if you’re a nervous driver then think about public transport instead.
The standard of the roads ranged from generally very good in the highlands to abysmal in many rural regions. Potholes are frequent, many roads remain unpaved, and during wet season landslides are common.
The Inter-American Highway or Pan-American Highway (Pan-Americana) runs through Costa Rica from La Cruz on the Nicaraguan border through San José to Paso Canoas on the Panamanian border. Liberia and San José are en route and the 32 goes out to Limon for the Caribbean coast.
You must be over 21 to hire a car, and though an international driver’s license is safest, you are likely to be able to use a full license from your own country. You will need a credit card for the deposit, which will cost at least as much as the car hire but which you will hopefully get back.
There are many different car hire companies in Costa Rica, predominantly in San José and at the main airport, but it is recommended to either book a car through a local travel agency or be exceptionally careful to note and confirm any damage or scratches to the vehicle before you drive off.
Also ensure that the vehicle comes with a spare tyre – a decent one! – and a jack, because Costa Rica’s roads are such that you may well need one.
Taxis are numerous and inexpensive in San José. The taxis are coloured red (except those serving the Juan Santamaría International Airport, which are orange). Taxis are usually metered, but few drivers use the meters as they figure they can extract more money from tourists by not doing so. Make sure they put it on and that it hasn’t already been running, or ask your hotel concierge how much a fare should be, and negotiate with the driver to an agreed amount before setting off.
Motorbikes: It’s not the main way of getting around, so hiring motorbikes isn’t as easy as in other parts of the world. Hiring a motorcycle isn’t cheap, and you will probably have to pay more in deposit than the cost of the hire. However, motorcycle company Wild Rider provide well-serviced, decent bikes and will have them ready in San José or even at the airport for you to pick up (506 2258 4604; www.wild-rider.com).
Bicycles: Cycling in Costa Rica is to be take cautiously – San José has crazy traffic and more hills than you’d think; cycling here is to be avoided. Much of the interior is mountainous with huge trucks and coaches on the narrow roads, and so is both dangerous and exhausting – it’s more for the extreme sports cyclists. But the coastal roads are flatter and wider, and very beautiful. Hiring bicycles isn’t that cheap – expect to pay over US$20 per day, although you can negotiate weekly rates. But on the other hand the quality tends to be good. Ask at your hotel if they rent bikes or can recommend anywhere.
Public transport via road in Costa Rica ranges from the large coach companies such as the Tica Bus (www.ticabus.com) and Transnica (506 2223 4242; http://transnica.com), which are comfortable and air-conditioned, to tiny little shuttle buses in the Nicoya Peninsula, where they pack you in and jolt you around for hours. Bus travel, however long and potentially frustrating, is inexpensive and often quite fun.
A speed limit of 80kph (55mph) is enforced on most highways. However, Costa Ricans are notoriously dangerous drivers who pay little heed to speed limits and traffic regulations. Be careful going through towns, as the speed limit drops. If you speed or drink drive the Costa Rican police can fine you heavily, so it is suggested that you don’t do anything to antagonise them and, if you are pulled over, be extremely nice. Never try and bribe them. Use of seat belts is mandatory.
If you break down in Costa Rica, you need to call your car hire company. If you think it’s a problem that can be fixed, there are service stations along the Pan-American Highway which tend to have mechanics or can get in contact with them. If you do break down, the first thing you need to do is look for two reflecting triangles which should be in the boot. Put them in the front and back of your car so that other drivers can see you’re broken down.
Drivers must have a national licence or International Driving Permit. You must be 25 years of age to rent from most car rental agencies.
San José has privately run bus services, charging fares on a two-zone system. The buses are crazy and fast-moving; to find one going your way, ask a local – destinations are usually listed on the front windows but aren’t clear.
Train lines are now limited to two commuter routes: from Heredia to San José, travelling only at peak times and taking half an hour; and from Pavas via San José and San Pedro to Curridabat, running only hourly in the morning and evening.
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