TACA (website: www.taca.com) runs flights between Guatemala City and Flores. A travel tax of Q5 per person is applied to internal flights and payable at the check-in desks.

Note: Tikal Jets went out of business in 2006.

Regular boats operate between Puerto Barrios and Livingston. There are also frequent services along the Rio Dulce, as well as on the bigger lakes, in particular between villages on Lake Atitlán.

Traffic drives on the right. There is an extensive road network but less than a third of the roads are all-weather. Travellers should avoid driving to Panajachel via Patzun as the road is badly maintained and criminals take advantage of these conditions to hold up travellers. The road from the El Salvador border to Cuilapa and from the Belize border to El Cruce are major danger spots for bus-jacking and there are also similar incidents on the main Pan-American Highway near Solola.

Bus: Buses are cheap but crowded and road accidents are common. Slightly more expensive air-conditioned services are available. Transportes Litegua (tel: 2220 8840; website: www.litegua.com) operates regular buses from Guatemala City, Rio Dulce and Morales to Puerto Barrios. The Guatemala City Council no longer permits inter-urban buses to enter the city centre; passengers are dropped at various points on the outskirts.

Shuttle minibus: Private minibuses operate on the main tourist routes.

Car hire: International and local firms have offices in Guatemala City.

Regulations: Seat belts must be worn at all times. Speed limits vary depending on the condition of the road but they are rarely enforced.

Emergency breakdown service: PROVIAL patrols the major highways (tel: 2422 7878). Alternatively, call the police (tel: 120) or the fire brigade (tel: 122 or 123).

Documentation: A national licence is valid for one to three months, but an International Driving Permit is recommended.

Guatemala City and major towns have limited, but cheap and regular, bus services. Travellers are advised to use radio-dispatched taxis or taxis from international hotels. Tipping is discretionary (5 to 10%).