Rice is the staple food and the Iranians cook it superbly. It is often eaten with wheat bread, yoghurt, lamb and aubergines. Typical Persian flavours are subtle, with cinnamon, cloves, turmeric, cardamom and saffron all delicately blended. Garlic and lime also feature. Many Iranians make their own yoghurt, which can be used as an ingredient in many dishes or as a cool and refreshing drink.

Things to know: Most Iranian meals are eaten with a spoon and fork, but visitors may choose a Western dish and eat with a knife and fork. The consumption of alcohol is strictly forbidden.

National specialities:
• Chelo khoresh (rice topped with vegetables and meat in a nut sauce).
• Polo chele (pilau rice), polo sabzi (pilau rice cooked with fresh herbs), polo chirin (sweet-sour saffron-coloured rice with raisins, almonds and orange), adas polo (rice, lentils and meat) and morgh polo (chicken and pilau rice).
• Chelo kababs (rice with skewered meats cooked over charcoal).
• Kofte (minced meat formed into meatballs) and kofte gusht (meatloaf).
• Abgusht (thick stew).

National drinks:
• Fruit and vegetable juices are popular, as are sparkling mineral waters.
• Tea is also popular and drunk in the many tea-houses (ghahve khane).
• Doogh (a cold drink made from yoghurt and mineral water).

Tipping: In large hotels, a 10 to 15% service charge is added to the bill. In restaurants (chelokababis) it is usual to leave some small change. Tipping is not expected in tea-houses or small hotels.

While the shops offer a wide selection of quality goods, local items can be bought in the many bazaars. Purchases include hand-carved, inlaid woodwork, carpets, rugs, silks, leather goods, mats, tablecloths, gold, silver, glass and ceramics. Bargaining is customary. There are restrictions on which items may be taken out of the country (see Duty-Free for details).

Shopping hours: Generally 0900-1300 and 1500-2000.