Things to know: There is strict adherence to Islamic laws on the consumption of alcohol, which is available within the limits of religious laws. A permit for alcohol may be necessary, although this may only be valid at international hotels. Certain hotels prohibit the consumption of alcohol by visitors. During the lunar month of Ramadan, smoking and drinking in public is not permitted. Waiter service is usual in restaurants.

National specialities:
• Dolma (vine leaves, cabbage, lettuce, onions, aubergine, marrow or cucumbers stuffed with rice, meat and spices).
• Tikka (small chunks of mutton on skewers grilled on a charcoal fire).
• Quozi (small lamb boiled whole and grilled, stuffed with rice, minced meat and spices and served on rice) and masgouf (fish from the Tigris, cooked on the river bank).

National drinks:
• Arak (a clear, colourless, unsweetened aniseed-flavoured distilled alcoholic drink).

Legal drinking age: 21.

Tipping: Normal limit is 10 to 15%.

Baghdad was once famous for its nightlife, with first-class restaurants and all-night clubs where music and sometimes alcohol flowed. Now Iraqi liquor sellers and drinkers are forced underground. Much of the alcohol sold is counterfeit and the price is often more than doubled due to the difficulty in obtaining it. Members-only clubs in Baghdad are currently the only relatively safe havens for socialising, protected by high walls, guards and members lists. Most people stay home at night after 1800 because it is too dangerous to be out. Iraqi cinema and music is on the up, however.

The long-established town markets sell copperware, silver, spices, carpets and brightly coloured rugs. In Baghdad the copper market is a centre of noisy activity with coppersmiths beating their pots into shape.

Shopping hours: Sat-Thurs 0830-1300 and 1700-1900; although these can vary.