Korea has its own very distinctive cuisine, quite different from Chinese or Japanese. Rice is the staple food and a typical Korean meal consists of rice, soup, rice water and eight to 20 side dishes of vegetables, fish, poultry, eggs, bean-curd and sea plants. Most Korean soups and side dishes are heavily laced with red pepper.

Things to know: Most major hotels will offer a selection of restaurants, serving Korean, Japanese and Chinese cuisine or Western-style food. The most common type of drinking establishment is the suljip (wine bar), but there are also pubs serving well-known European brands. Koreans offer glasses of liquor to each other as a gesture of camaraderie; never fill your own glass and remember, juniors pour for seniors.

National specialities:
• Bibimbap (boiled rice mixed with vegetables and chilli peppers).
• Kimchi (Korean national dish, highly spiced pickle of Chinese cabbage or white radish with turnips, onions, salt, fish, chestnuts and red pepper).
• Bulgogi (marinated, charcoal-broiled beef barbecue).
• Grilled galbi (seasoned ribs).
• Haemultang (seafood stew).

National drinks:
• Yakju (refined pure liquor fermented from rice).
• Soju (like vodka and made from potatoes or grain).
• Korean beer: Cass, Hite and OB.
• Makgeolli and donggongju (milky liquor).
• Ginseng wine is strong and sweet, similar to brandy.

Legal drinking age: 20.

Tipping: Although not a Korean custom, most hotels and other tourist facilities add a 10% service charge to bills.

Korea's nightlife offers a mix of traditional (spellbinding performances of music, dance and theatre) with Broadway/West End-style shows, and a splash of home-grown stage drama such as Cookin', a frenetic show based on chefs cooking live, or the Korean B-Boys, break-dancing actors wowing both locally and internationally. Hotel bars are popular in cities; but their nightclubs tend to be expensive. Larger hotels may also have their own private theatre restaurants.

Beer halls, many decorated along a European theme, are popular places to drink and meet friends. Visitors are expected to eat as well as drink. Champagne bars are also making inroads as the Western influence continues and prosperity rises. Seoul's fashionable areas are Hongik University area and Apgujeong. Itaweon is aimed squarely at foreigners and the local population of American soldiers but it is quite a tacky area. Koreans also love to play board games in cafes and bars, something of a cult phenomenon started in 2002. They also love to sing their hearts out in a karaoke bar, or noraebang, as they are known here. There are also many cinemas. Operas, concerts and recitals can be seen at the National Theatre and performances of Korean classical music, dances and plays can be seen at Korea House. There are several licensed state-of-the-art casinos throughout the country.

For daily listings of events, consult Korea's English-language papers.

The best shopping districts and markets are in the capital, Seoul, and include:
• Namdaemun Korea's largest general wholesale market.
• Dongdaemun One of Seoul's oldest markets, good for bargains.
• Myeong-dong Korea's fashion district and home to countless mid-market brands, boutiques, malls and an underground shopping passage leading to Namdaemun.
• Insa-dong Delightful street for crafts, antiques and art.
• Itaewon A modern shopping district popular with foreign tourists, where shopkeepers speak English and sell all kinds of stuff; known for its many tailors, who can whip up shirts and suits.
• Yongsan Electronics Market Largest electronics and computer market in Korea.
• Koyndang Oriental medicine, spice and herb market.
• Hwangkhak-dong Flea market, good for second-hand shopping.
• Ahyon-dong Home to more than 120 wedding boutiques.
• COEX Asia's biggest shopping mall is all underground.
• Apgujeong The poshest shopping district in Korea with designers from Armani to Versace having stores in the area.

Favourite buys include hand-tailored clothes, silks, brocades, handbags, leatherwork, gold jewellery, topaz, amethyst, amber, jade and silver, ginseng, tea paintings, costume dolls, musical instruments, brassware, lacquerware, woodcarvings, baskets, scrolls and screens. Major cities have foreigners' duty-free shops where people can use foreign currency with a valid passport.

Shopping hours: Mon-Sun 1030-2000 (often until 2200).

Visitors are entitled to claim back Value Added Tax if they spend KRW30,000 or more in one day in one shop that has the Tax Refund Shopping logo displayed, and plan to take the purchase out of the country within three months. You get a Korea Refund Cheque when you pay for your purchase and this is later shown, with your purchase, at Customs. You can cash your refund cheque in Korea or abroad at one of more than 200 international cash refund offices (website: www.globalrefund.com).