Cruise ships can sail right into Argentina's hip and bustling capital, which is the largest port on the Paraná river. Buenos Aires is considered the most European of all Latin American cities thanks to its wide boulevards, leafy parks, grand buildings and varied culture and nightlife.

The porteños ('people of the port'), as the residents of Buenos Aires are known, are descended from the first Spanish founders and Italian immigrants from the 19th century. Their culture is still alive in the city today in the countless art galleries, theatres and museums. But the city has also spawned its own art forms, notably the tango, for which Buenos Aires is famous.

Despite a huge economic divide and its crumbling colonial buildings, Buenos Aires oozes wealth and confidence and the city's elite still enjoy the high-life in its many plush shopping malls, classy restaurants and some of South America's best clubs.

Eva Perón, tango and football are the three elements that the capital is famed for. Nevertheless, Buenos Aires is littered with museums and magnificent mansions and buildings. After sightseeing and shopping, there are peaceful parks to relax in and bars and cafes for sampling the excellent local cuisine.

Although initially confusing, the city is based on a grid system that is soon easy to master. The main point of orientation is the Avenida 9 de Julio, the world's widest avenue. The main square, Plaza de Mayo with its grand colonial buildings, is a great starting point for sightseeing in Buenos Aires and is close to Calle Florida and Lavalle - the pedestrianised shopping areas.

Also nearby are La Recoleta Cemetery, Evita's final resting place, and Puerto Madero, a regeneration project beside the city's historic docks. South of the central area are the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, San Telmo and La Boca, while to the north lie the wealthier barrios of Retiro, Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano.

Highlights
• La Boca barrio
• Dancing the Tango
• Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Arts Museum)
• Walking in the Jardin Japones (Japanese Gardens)
• Museo Evita (Eva Perón Museum)

Centro de Información Turística (Tourist Information Centre)
Alicia Moreau De Justo 200, Dique 4, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: +54 11 4315 4265.
Website: www.bue.gov.ar

Shopping is one of the great pleasures in Buenos Aires. Wealthy urbanites throng the streets and malls in search of the latest designer clothes, while students hurriedly browse the thrift stores for bargains. Many of the city's barrios have their own traditional markets or shopping streets with trendy boutiques filled with trinkets and hand-made products.

Where? Calle Florida, Galerias Pacifico, Patio Bullrich, Palermo Viejo, San Telmo Market.
What? Leatherwear, silver jewellery, designer clothes, ethnic arts and crafts, antiques, wine, pastries and cakes.

Argentina is the land of steak and Buenos Aires boasts many fine parilla (grill) restaurants. In recent years, the city's cuisine has taken on a much more cosmopolitan flavour and most tastes are catered for. Sushi is incredibly popular, as is Mexican and southeast Asian food. For a special treat, don't miss the small cafes or confiterías where the cakes and pastries are out of this world.

Buenos Aires specialities
• Dulce de Leche (sweet toffee).
• Steak.
• Maté (bitter tea).
• Empanada (pasties).

Buenos Aires has a temperate climate with hot, sticky summers and dry, chilly winters. The best times to visit are the spring months of September, October and November. The city is very quiet in December and January when porteños take their summer holidays.

As well as the big global chain hotels, Buenos Aires has fantastic boutique hotels and unique bed and breakfasts. In recent years, several ultra-trendy art hotels have sprung up. Most of the well-known hotels are based around the financial district in the city centre but Puerto Madero and Palermo are increasingly popular.

Puerto de Buenos Aires
Avenida Ing. Huergo 431, CP 1107
Website: www.puertobuenosaires.gov.ar

Retiro station
Avenida Ramos Mejia

Constitucion station
Calle General Hornos 11

Once station
Avenida Pueyrredon and Calle Bartolomé Mitre

Ezeiza) Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE)
Aut. Richieri S/N, CP 1802, Buenos Aires
Website: www.aa2000.com.ar

Argentina

GMT - 3.

Peso (AR$) = 100 centavos.

Spanish; English is widely spoken, as are French and German.

Eastern Argentina, South America.

3 million (city).

Federal and Democratic Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1816.

Roman Catholic majority.

The most common form of greeting between friends is kissing cheeks. When invited to somebody's house it is quite common to take a homemade dish or dessert. Dinner is usually served between 2100-2200. Avoid casual discussion of the Falklands/Malvinas war. Dress is not usually formal, though clothes should be conservative away from the beach.

Tipping: Service charge is sometimes added in hotel restaurants but tipping is largely discretionary. It is normal to leave a 10% tip in restaurants and bars.