Cruise ships arriving in the heaving, colourful bazaar city of Istanbul are passing literally along the frontier between Europe and Asia.

Often described as ‘the crossroads of Europe and Asia' - this mind-boggling city of carpets and caravanserais has an imperial history stretching back for more than 1,500 years.

An estimated 15 million people cluster on both sides of the Bosphorus Strait, which also connects the trade routes of the Black Sea to the Mediterranean.

As a result, the city has been a jealously guarded centre of world trade since the Byzantine era, with the natural harbour of the Golden Horn nestled within the city.

The main tourist sites are located in the Sultanahmet quarter on the European side of the Bosphorus and include: Topkapi Sarayi (Topkapi Palace), the sumptuous former residence of the Ottoman sultans, complete with harem and beautiful gardens overlooking the Bosphorus.

The city also boasts some spectacular mosques and churches, a range of museums - and of course the opportunity to indulge in a Turkish bath.

It's also fascinating to wander around the fishing harbour and explore the city aboard the vintage trams.

Highlights
• Haghia Sophia mosque
• Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque)
• Yerebatan Sarayi (Basilica Cistern)
• Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower)
• Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi
• Turkish and Islamic Art Museum
• Istanbul Modern Art Gallery
• Yildiz Park

Karaköy Port Tourist Information Office, Istanbul, Turkey.
Tel: +90 21224 95776.
Website: www.ibb.gov.tr

Bargain for silks, spices and jewellery at the 15th-century Grand Bazaar in Beyazit. The Spice Bazaar in nearby Eminönü is another good place to buy interesting and exotic souvenirs. Kilims and carpets can be purchased from the many specialist shops that line the streets around Sultanahmet. On Sundays Ortaköy harbour hosts a craft and antique market. Haggling is usual.

Cafes and restaurants abound in the streets of Istanbul - try shish kebab (grilled meat skewers), dolma (stuffed vine leaves) or karniyarik (stuffed aubergine). For a snack, the fish rolls offered by the waterside boatmen are a treat.

Istanbul has a typical Mediterranean climate - although it can get chilly and wet in the winter months, temperatures often reach 30°C (86°F) and more in summer. Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times for exploring the city.

Turkey

GMT + 2.

Turkish Lira (YTL) = 100 New Kurus (Ykr).

English.

Mediterranean eastern Europe.

15 million.

Republic.

Muslim, mostly Sunni, with a very small Christian minority.

Shaking hands is the normal form of greeting. Hospitality is very important and visitors should respect Islamic customs. Informal wear is acceptable (if not too revealing), but beachwear should be confined to the beach or poolside. Smoking is widely acceptable. Shoes should be removed before entering a mosque.

Tipping
A service charge is included in hotel and restaurant bills. It is customary to leave a small tip (10 to 15%) for barbers, hairdressers, Turkish Bath attendants and waiters in smarter establishments.