Situated in Russia's west, on the Baltic Sea, St Petersburg (formerly Leningrad) is a magnet for cruise ships and a city of extremes. Its magnificent architecture is astounding, but decay and dilapidation are constant threats, just about fought off by a never-ending restoration programme.

The luxurious life of the tsars depended on the abject poverty and squalor of serfs and peasants. Today, the newly rich, in their designer clothes, pass tattered beggars on the streets.

The rivers and canals freeze in winter, while in midsummer all of Petersburg stays outdoors to enjoy the White Nights when the light is never quite extinguished.

On Nevsky prospekt, St Petersburg's main thoroughfare, the styles of three centuries, from classical to Baroque to Style Moderne, have created one of the most beautiful streets in the world.

Adding to the beauty of the buildings are the canals and rivers, which cross Nevsky prospekt. Like Venice, to which it is often compared, the winding waterways leading to the broad River Neva, are the heart of St Petersburg.

Highlights
• Hermitazh (Hermitage)
• Isaakievsky sobor (St Isaac's Cathedral)
• Russian Museum
• Peter and Paul Fortress

Gorodskoy Turistskovo-Informatsionniy Tsentr
Nevsky prospekt 41
Tel: +7 81231 12841.
Website: www.spb.ru (in Russian)

On Nevsky prospekt, the columned arcades and pillared facade of the 18th-century Gostinyy dvor accommodates hundreds of traders in a labyrinth of units, selling everything from clothes to alcohol and electronics. Some larger department stores, selling primarily clothing, shoes and cosmetics anchor each end of the shopping arcade.

Popular souvenirs include Russian dolls and the ubiquitous vodka.

Numerous cafes, bars and restaurants offer specialities including Borshch, (beetroot soup served hot with sour cream), beef stroganov, blini (small pancakes filled with caviar, fish, melted butter or sour cream) and caviar.

St Petersburg is best visited during the warm days and white nights of midsummer, but it is bitterly cold in the depths of the Russian winter.

Russian Federation

GMT + 3.

Rouble (Rbl) = 100 kopeks.

Russian.

North eastern Baltic coast.

4.7 million.

Republic since 1991.

Russian Orthodox majority. Muslim, Buddhist and Jewish minorities also exist.

It is customary to shake hands when greeting someone. Company or business gifts are well received. Conservative wear is suitable for most places and the seasonal weather should always be borne in mind. Smoking is acceptable unless stated otherwise. It is prohibited to take photographs of any military installation and/or establishments or sites of strategic importance. Failure to abide by this could result in police arrest.

Tipping: Hotels in Moscow and other large cities include a 10 to 15% service charge. Otherwise 10% is customary.