A dirt road in Gambia
© 123rf.com / Alan Kraft
Getting Around Gambia
Driving is often difficult and slow. Road conditions, especially inland, are very poor, heavily potholed with tired tarmac. Vehicles often have to weave slowly and dramatically, or drive adjacent to the road on a dirt rack.
In a country with almost 4000km of road, just 750km are paved. In the districts around Banjul, the main roads are tarmac. Outside the Greater Banjul area, a much-needed highway building and repair programme has been underway for several years: some main roads are newly surfaced but others are in very poor condition. Throughout the country, most minor roads are unsealed.
There are two main roads: north of the River Gambia the tarmac is in reasonable condition whilst south of the river it is bad and uneven. The main roads close to the coast are better but don’t allow you to get far off the beaten track before they deteriorate.
Greater Banjul has a few local and international providers. Alternatively the resort areas are best equipped to supply hire vehicles. It is more common to hire a car and a driver for a daily rate, especially for longer journeys. Driving can be difficult due to variable road conditions; some minor roads become impassable during the rainy season (June to October).
Bush taxis: Apart from private taxis, shared taxis (cars known as ‘sept-place’, minibuses or vans known as ‘Gelli-gellis’) are the only form of public transport between towns and villages. They wait at their starting point until full then travel along fixed routes, stopping wherever passengers want to get on or off. They are not allowed to enter some areas of the tourist coastal region or Cape Point. Fares are fixed.
Private taxis: There are two types; neither have meters. Tourist taxis are painted green and are licensed by the Gambian Tourist Authority to operate mainly from ranks in the resort areas; each rank has a noticeboard listing tariffs by destination. Local taxis are painted yellow with green stripes and can be hailed in the street; fares are lower and should be agreed in advance. Both types of taxi can travel anywhere in the country.
Available to hire at many hotels and resorts, these are a cheap and convenient way to explore the country as the landscape is flat and distances are short. If you get tired, load the bike onto a bus or bush taxi for a small luggage fee.
The national bus service connects the major cities and towns throughout the day although departures are irregular and journey times often long.
Drive on the right, overtake on the left but beware that drivers often stick to whichever bit of road is in the best condition. There are almost no streetlights so take care after dark.
There is no Automobile Association or official organisation but there are lots of improvised garages all along major roads where minor repairs can be made.
An International Driving Permit will be accepted for a period of three months. A temporary licence is available from the local authorities on presentation of a valid UK licence.
Bush taxis (shared cars, minibuses or vans) and private taxis are the only form of public transport in Gambian towns.
There are nearly a dozen points where travellers can cross the River Gambia by boat. Vehicle and passenger ferries between Banjul's commercial port and the town facing it across the river mouth, Barra, run at least once an hour in each direction until late evening. Tour operators run adventure and fishing trips using small motor boats or large converted pirogues, and offer day cruises along the river with lunch or dinner and a live band.
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