This little artisan town, just 2km (1 mile) south of Geneva’s city centre, is full of book and antique restorers, glass blowers, watchmakers, clothes designers, hatters, bistros and restaurants. In 1772, the people of Turin came to set up a town to rival Geneva. Carouge changed hands frequently but, in 1816, the town was annexed to Geneva and became Swiss. Its architecture therefore remains Italianate in style and the narrow streets are straight and orderly, with apartments looking onto wide, green courtyards. Many are open to the public, such as the courtyard of Rue Vautier (opposite number 43) and the courtyard of the Musée de Carouge.
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Things to see in Geneva
Geneva Tourist Office
Rue du Mont-Blanc 18, Geneva
Tel: (022) 909 7000.
Website: www.geneve-tourisme.ch
Opening times: Mon 1000-1800, Tues-Sat 0900-1800, Sun 1000-1600.
Two thirds of Geneva’s museums do not charge for admission. Private museums do charge, but have issued a pass, valid for three months, which is available from the tourist office and participating museums, giving discounted entry.
For somewhere so central to Geneva’s religious life, St Peter's Cathedral - built between 1160 and 1289 – is surprisingly small. Even more surprising is its combination of Romanesque, gothic, and neoclassical styles. The austerity of the main body of the church seems wholly appropriate for a building in which John Calvin preached (1536-1564), while by contrast the 15th-century Chapel of the Maccabees, restored in 1875, is a riot of gilded embellishment against blue and red backgrounds. The neoclassical facade was added in 1750. Under the cathedral are some interesting 14th-century mosaics, while the top of the north tower offers fine views over the Old Town and lake.
The English Garden, dating from 1854, is home to the Monument National, a statue of two young women - the 'Republic of Geneva' and 'Helvetia', which together symbolise Geneva's induction into the Swiss Confederation in 1814. Within the park there is an elegant bronze fountain and L'Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock) that was installed in 1955 to honour Geneva's watch-making industry and is now decorated with over 6,300 plants. The clock measures 5m (16.4ft) in diameter and 17.7m (58ft) in circumference. And if you’re into obscure world records, its second hand is the longest in the planet, at over 2.5m (8ft).
Geneva's world-renowned Botanical Gardens were created by the botanist A P de Candolle, in the Parc des Bastions in 1817. Relocated to their present site in 1904, the 28-hectare (69-acre) gardens have greenhouses with tropical plants from six continents, a pond brimming with aquatic plants, thousands of flowers, a garden of the senses, an aviary and a park of rare animals, as well as a research laboratory, herbarium collection (open by appointment) and an extensive library. In total, the gardens consist of around 16,000 different plant species from around the globe.
If you’ve got one image in your head of Geneva, it’s likely to involve this. The city’s Water Fountain is in many ways its Eiffel Tower, an impressive 140m (459ft) fountain that dominates the harbour and, indeed, most modern depictions of the city. Far from being originally intended as a tourist attraction, however, the jet was initially the safety valve for Geneva’s water supply. The spurting showpiece is today illuminated at night, while during the day the fountain takes care of the special effects for itself, with the appearance of shimmering rainbows a common spectacle during sunny periods.
Open since 1994 and occupying the site of a former factory, this Geneva museum extends over four floors. The industrial architecture of the previous tenants greatly adds to the mood of the venue, which focuses broadly on conceptual art from the last 50 years. In addition to its permanent collection, the museum stages a number of temporary exhibitions, often involving international artists. One of the permanent displays is 'L'Appartement', a faithful reproduction of a Parisian collector's flat, for which he has loaned his own furniture, paintings and sculptures.
Construction of Geneva’s 60ft (18m) Reformation Wall began in 1909, on the 400th anniversary of the birth of John Calvin. The monument is dedicated to the four figures central to the Reformation movement - John Calvin (1509-64), Théodore de Bèze (1513-1605), John Knox (c1514-72) and Guillaume Farel (1489-65).
With a powerful combination of audiovisuals, sculpture, computers and documentation, this extraordinary museum tells the story of the founding of the Red Cross by Henry Dunant, as well as its present humanitarian actions. The photographic displays of the organisation’s work in war-torn zones are extremely affecting, even more so for the non-judgmental way in which they’re presented. It’s highly contemporary too, meaning visitors are likely to gain insight into current situations ongoing around the globe. It is Geneva's most impressive and original museum. The Café Dunant, also on site, is a multimedia area with interactive features.
If your knowledge of Swiss timepieces begins and ends with cuckoo-clocks, prepare for enlightenment. Geneva has, of course, long been associated with clocks and the Patek Philippe Company counts among the finest manufacturers of Swiss watches. The exhibition is split into two main sections – the first looks at antique watches from the 16th to the 19th centuries, many of them considered masterpieces of their kind, while the second focuses on watches made by Patek Philippe from 1839 to the present day.
This vast Geneva building, designed in the form of a double horseshoe and set in a park with century-old trees, is the largest United Nations centre after New York. It was built between 1929 and 1937 to host the League of Nations, the precursor to the UN, so in terms of historical significance it’s something of a titan. Guided tours take in the Assembly Hall, the Council Chamber and the Human Rights and Alliance of Civilisations Room. Unsurprisingly, visits are extremely popular – more than 100,000 tourists come calling annually. Tours last an hour and are available in 15 languages.
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