Things to see in Ljubljana

The Ljubljanica may not be as impressive and grand as some of Europe's great rivers, but what is often little more than a sleepy stream can churn into quite a lively rush of water after heavy rain or snow melts. There are boat tours on the river, which leave just across from Prešernov trg on the Old Town side with guided commentary on some trips – bookings can be made at any of the city’s tourist offices. In winter, walks can be a little bracing, but snow adds its own magic to the banks.

The Museum of Modern Art is one of Ljubljana's true joys and lovers of avant-garde art should make a beeline for this gallery and allow plenty of time. It showcases all things Slovenian with over 1,300 paintings and over 500 sculptures. Even if your tastes are more traditional, it is well worth looking around for some interesting domestic artists and a variety of temporary exhibits. Some works by artists from the surrounding countries do also feature, especially during temporary exhibitions. The museum is only a stone's throw from the National Gallery.

Mestni trg, Stari trg and Gornji trg are connecting squares, which hug the base of Castle Hill and ripple through the heart of the Old Town in a flurry of appealing baroque and medieval buildings. Many Ljubljana’s most popular cafés, bars and restaurants are located in or around these long squares, which buzz with life day and night, especially in summer. This cobbled expanse is the best venue in Ljubljana for an aimless stroll, stopping off for a bite to eat or drink on the way.