A former brothel run by gypsies, this bar has a tiled interior depicting Velázquez's ‘The Drunkards’, and is now a respectable bar for a young, chic clientele. Come early if you want to see the best of the interior décor. Later, the lights are dimmed and a party crowd moves in.
Madrileños tend to make not one plan for the evening but three or four. While the busiest nights are Friday and Saturday (with Thursday a close runner-up), the locals go out every night and miraculously manage to work or study during the day.
Nightlife centres on three major districts - Chueca (Madrid's gay village, which specialises in trendy restaurants), Calle Huertas (traditional Spanish music, jazz clubs and bars) and Malasaña (mainly bars and clubs frequented by a young crowd).
The weekly Guía del Ocio (www.guiadelocio.com/english), available from kiosks, has information on concerts, theatre, film and other entertainment options. It also provides restaurant listings.