The St-Victor district in the seventh arrondissement is steadily growing in popularity and is home to several bars, restaurants and food shops much loved by the bobo (bohemian bourgeois). Top of the list is laidback Bar de la Relève, where the tables spill out onto the street.
Marseille has a dynamic live music and club scene. The best areas for nightlife are Place Thiars and Cours Honoré-d’Estienne-d’Orves in the Vieux Port, and Cours Julien, a square lined with cafés and bars west of the port. Marseille By Night (www.marseillebynight.com) is a good online guide for what’s happening in the city once the sun drops (French only).