Haji-Ali Dargah, Mumbai

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India

Mumbai Nightlife

Mumbai is India's nightlife capital with enough bars and clubs to satisfy even the most hardened hedonist. Dress codes do apply in Mumbai and it pays to make an effort; after all you might well be rubbing shoulders with top Bollywood players. Some clubs operate a couples-only policy (for both members and non-members) and many charge an entrance fee. All the 5-star hotels have bars, where you can drink in air-conditioned and pricey seclusion.

The most popular drinks are beer and spirits (particularly whisky) rather than imported wine. Indian wine is readily available and fairly palatable. For listings, check out the fortnightly Time Out magazine and the daily English-language newspaper Mid-day (which also publishes List, a guide to what's on in the city).

Bars in Mumbai (Bombay)

Geoffrey's

Located in the Hotel Marine Plaza, Geoffrey's is Mumbai's quintessential English pub. It serves a good set-price lunch in addition to its malts and draft beer.

Hotel Marine Plaza, 29 Marine Drive
Tel: (022) 2285 1212.
Website: www.hotelmarineplaza.com/restaurants.htm

Indigo

Located down a narrow street in Colaba, Indigo was the original Mumbai bar-restaurant and, despite having spawned numerous imitators, its swish décor still attracts a smartly turned-out set. The bar is beautifully designed with deep-sea blue walls and leather armchairs, cocktails are excellent, and if you fancy a cigar, there's also a cosy cigar bar upstairs.

4 Mandlik Road, Colaba
Tel: (022) 6636 8999.
Website: www.foodindigo.com

Leopold's Café & Bar

This pub and café is something of an institution in Mumbai. Hugely popular with backpackers - and not just for the cheap beer, Leo's serves cocktails, shots and pipe-shaped beer towers.

Colaba Causeway, near Regal
Tel: (022) 2282 8185.
Website: www.leopoldcafe.com

Clubs in Mumbai (Bombay)

Ra

In the heart of the Phoenix Mills shopping complex, Ra is a top-notch nightclub with glass roof always packed with the city's beautiful people. The DJ plays a mash of hip hop, Hindi pop, trance and retro.

Phoenix Mills Compound, Lower Parel
Tel: (022) 6661 4343.

Red Light

Red Light is a popular student venue, especially on Wednesday hip hop nights. It plays different music every night - R&B, house, pop - and is always packed but has a really good vibe.

145 MG Road, Fort
Tel: (022) 6634 6247.

Voodoo Pub

For something a little grungier, try the Voodoo Pub, which hosts an unofficial gay-friendly night on Saturdays after 2300.

2/5 Kamal Mansion, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba
Tel: (022) 2284 1959.

Live Music in Mumbai (Bombay)

Not Just Jazz by the Bay

South Mumbai's best - and only - live music venue. In addition to jazz, there are live rock, blues, pop and even karaoke evenings.

143 Marine Drive, Churchgate
Tel: (022) 2285 1876.

Theatre in Mumbai (Bombay)

Nehru Centre Auditorium

The Nehru Centre Auditorium regularly stages theatre, dance and music, and has an auditorium, art galleries, exhibition halls and a planetarium.

Dr Annie Besant Road, Worli
Tel: (022) 2493 3340.
Website: www.nehru-centre.org

Music and Dance in Mumbai (Bombay)

National Centre for Performing Arts

Mumbai's National Centre for Performing Arts, a huge complex of five theatres, puts on a widely varying programme of plays, musicals and dance, including the occasional English-language play. Many performances are free.

Nariman Point
Tel: (022) 2283 3737.
Website: www.ncpamumbai.com

Film in Mumbai (Bombay)

Film City

Movies are hugely popular in India (second only to cricket), and Mumbai is responsible for the majority of the Bollywood (Hindi-language) films that are made in the country. The centre of the action is Film City, at Goregaon, where the big film studios are located. The bulk of Bollywood blockbusters involve sugary love stories and action dramas with plenty of singing and dancing along the way. Unfortunately, the sets and studios are not open to the public but you can get a glimpse of the action on a tour with Bollywood Tourism (tel: (022) 2660 9909; www.bollywoodtourism.com).