Things to see in Muscat

Muscat has several small museums dedicated to life before the Renaissance (ie pre-1970) but this collection of antique household items in a beautifully restored residence gives the best idea of Omani heritage. There is also a fine collection of Omani ceremonial daggers and silver jewellery that somehow escaped being melted down and exchanged for gold.

Without doubt, the biggest attraction in Muscat is the old souk that runs through a warren of alleyways off Mutrah Corniche, with cupboard-sized shops selling everything from home-grown frankincense, gold and myrrh to plastic trays and Omani khanja (ceremonial daggers). This is the place to look for strings of lapis lazuli, coral and turquoise, the semi-precious ‘gems’ of the region in bead shops that are festooned with handicrafts from Afghanistan to India. Old wedding chests and wooden doors from village houses are some of the less portable items on offer. The souk offers an experience as well as a shopping trip; pause with a fresh fruit cocktail along one of the labyrinthine alleyways and savour Muscat’s past and present.

Muscat's uninterrupted beach of pale sand is bejewelled with shells and ornamented with sea birds. It stretches for 20km (12 miles) from the Crowne Plaza Hotel past shaded barbecue areas, coffee shops and three grand hotels, InterContinental Muscat, the Grand Hyatt Muscat and The Chedi. This is where to gain a feel for the soul of Muscat as lady joggers in their abeyas (black clothing) exercise in the morning, football teams gather at sunset and families picnic into the early hours. The adjacent shopping area of Shatti al-Qurm has a traditional craft shop and Bateels, a shop selling irresistible chocolate-covered dates.