Bay of Naples
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Naples Nightlife
Naples is a vivacious city and has a cultural life to match. More than just mandolins and tenors, the city has one of the liveliest nightlife scenes in Italy. A huge student population means there are plenty of bars ranging from grungy to sophisticated where you can drink molten black coffee and talk world politics and Dante. Clubs usually open at 2230 and fill up after midnight. Many close in July and August when they move to out-of-town beach locations.
It isn’t just students who love a night out. All Neapolitans have a theatrical bent which means the city is well served with opera, live music, theatre and dance productions.
For more information pick up the monthly listing magazine Qui Napoli from the tourist office. You can buy tickets for most events at the box office inside the Feltrinelli bookshop (tel: 081 240 5411; Via S. Caterina a Chiaia 23).
Bars in Naples
The bottle-lined brick walls of Enoteca Belladonna boast some of Campania’s finest local wines. That may be why on summer evenings crowds of wine-glass wielding Neapolitans spill out of the tiny premises into the cobbled streets. Family-run, the bar was appropriately converted from an old cellar in the 1960s. Plates of charcuterie and toasted crostini topped with marinated aubergines and peppers make a fine match for the wine.
Vico Belledonne a Chiaia 18
Tel: (081) 403 162.
www.enotecabelledonne.com
This café, located at the edge of grand Piazza del Plebiscito, is Naples’ most venerable café. Its art nouveau interior is ornately decorated, the glowing wooden bar stretching from one end to the other. Self-conscious patrons sip coffee and cocktails, attended by uniformed waiters. A cocktail or prosecco here, prior to an evening performance at the Teatro San Carlo, is a local ritual.
Via Chiaia 12
Tel: (081) 417 582.
www.caffegambrinus.com
A chameleon café-bookshop-publishing house and bar, Intra Moenia is the place to come for a long afternoon coffee or low-key evenings of good wine and good conversation. Located on Piazza Bellini, one of the most attractive piazzas in the historic centre, it has a refined cultural atmosphere. Many people simply grab a drink and sit out on the piazza on hot summer evenings.
Piazza Bellini 70
Tel: (081) 290 720.
www.intramoenia.it
Clubs in Naples
For a sample of the Neapolitan summer club scene you can’t do much better then L’Arenile. Its fabulous wooden-decked cabana-style interior and terrace are draped with gossamer curtains, and populated by Campari-sipping socialites. Pretentious it may be, but the romantic atmosphere and beachside views are hard to beat. The Tuesday night jam session hosts top names from the Neapolitan music scene. It runs summer only from April to September.
Via Coroglio 14b
Tel: (081) 570 6035.
www.arenilereload.com
Midweek Rising South in the haunt of pierced and tattoed art students, but come the weekend and this club draws in a broad spectrum of Neapolitan night owls. Situated in a brick-walled tunnel beneath the historic centre you can groove to a mix of drum ‘n’ bass, electronica, house and hiphop. Drinkers lounge on comfy sofas and stare transfixed by the art house projections crawling up the walls.
Via San Sebastiano 19
Tel: (335) 879 0428.
Located in the stylish, seafront neighbourhood of Chiaia, S’move is smooth in more ways than one. A bar-restaurant during the day it transforms into a lounge bar at night. Huge mesmerising lava lamps and visually arresting modern art make you feel like you’re drinking on a coral reef. Lurid coloured cocktails, mixed with flair, add to the effect while live DJs spin nu-jazz, electro and funk every Thursday to Sunday.
Vico dei Sospiri 10a
Tel: (081) 764 5813.
www.smove-lab.net
Live Music in Naples
Possibly the best jazz club in Naples, Around Midnight is Naples oldest and most famous jazz den. Major gigs are generally held on Friday and Saturday. Book ahead on these nights if you want to get a table and eat here as well. It is a tiny, atmospheric place. The bands are typically homegrown and there’s an occasional blues performance.
Via Bonito 32/A
Tel: (081) 742 3278.
www.aroundmidnight.it
Probably the only dedicated live-music venue in the city, Bluestone is a self-consciously designed space with a broad stage. Big picture windows suck some of the atmosphere out of the place, which the red leather chairs and banquettes valiantly try to generate. Don’t let it put you off. An in-the-know local crowd come here for the latest offerings from local singer songwriters as well as rock, blues and jazz.
Via Alabardieri 10
Tel: (081) 423 8455.
www.bluestonenapoli.it
A current favourite with local music hounds, Goodfellas has a down-to-earth vibe and an excellent programme of events. Grab a glass of beer and settle down in a corner of the cosy barrel-vaulted rooms for an evening of rhythm and blues, rock or jazz.
Via Morghen 34bis
Tel: (340) 922 5475.
www.goodfellasclub.com
Classical Music in Naples
Naples classical music association puts on a full calendar of events in different locations across the city. From intimate chamber music events to large concerts featuring fully-fledged orchestras, the programme mixes up local and international talent. Some of the venues such as the Castel Sant’Elmo are spectacular.
Piazza dei Martiri 58
Tel: (081) 406 011.
www.associazionescarlatti.it
Opera in Naples
San Carlo is one of the oldest music theatres in the world and the musical heart of Naples. It hosts a world-class programme of opera, ballet and classical concerts. The six-tiered interior is a magnificent setting for an evening of opera and Neapolitan audiences make for lively audience participation. The season runs all year with the exception of July and August, when they close for a midseason break.
Via San Carlo 98
Tel: (081) 797 2111.
www.teatrosancarlo.it
Theatre in Naples
The most beautiful of the city's many theatres is undoubtedly Teatro Bellini, which is located in the city centre. It opened in 1864 and has been damaged both by fires and earthquakes over the years, but it is still going strong. The programme consists mostly of theatrical productions such as the Divine Comedy and musical theatre productions.
Via Conte di Ruvo 14
Tel: (081) 549 1266.
www.teatrobellini.it
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