Palermo Nightlife

Bars: The majority of the cafes (which do not serve alcohol) are located in the historical centre. For something stronger, try Au Domino in Via Principe di Belmonte, Cambio Cavalli, one of the first pubs in Palermo. The American Bar, on the top floor of the Grande Albergo Sole, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 291, has a roof terrace bar with views over the city rooftops. Bottiglieria del Massimo, Via Spinuzza 59, is a wine bar with outdoor seating near Teatro Massimo. For cocktails, head for Bar Fiera Vecchia, Piazza della Rivoluzione.

Live Music: The Crazy Bull, Via Atenasio 8/A, a pub decorated in traditional American style has live Italian, American, English and South American music. New singers get a chance to shine at the Bier Garten, Viale Regione Siciliana 6469 and the Malox, Piazzetta della Canna 8-9. I Candelai, Via Candelai 65, is a large bar with live music most nights.

Clubs: Popular clubs include Tonnara Florio, Discesa Tonnara 4, in the ancient district of Arenella, the Anticlea Club, Viale Galatea 6, the Kursaal Kalesa Club, Foro Umberto I 21/A (located along the promenade of the Foro Italico) and the Country Club, Via dell'Olimpo, great in the summer because of its large open-air dance floors. Other nightspots popular with Palermitans can be found around Via dei Candelai, Via Mariano Stabile, Via Bara All'Olivella and Via E.Parisi.

Classical Music: The beautiful Teatro Massimo, Piazza Verdi (tel: (091) 605 3111; website: www.teatromassimo.it) is the obvious choice for classical music, opera, ballet, concerts and recitals. In summer (July to September), it moves to Teatro del Parco (tel: (091) 605 3353) for outdoor performances. Teatro Politeama Garibaldi on Piazza Ruggero Settimo and Teatro Golden, Via Terrasanta 60, put on concert programmes throughout the year. Classical and jazz performances, many of which are free, can be heard at Lo Spasimo, Via dello Spasimo (tel: (091) 616 1486).

Theatre: Mainstream theatres include Teatro Lelio, Via Furitano 5 (tel: (091) 681 9122) and Teatro Biondo, Via Teatro Biondo 11, off Via Roma (tel: (091) 743 4341; website: www.teatrobiondo.it). For avant garde productions, try Teatro Libero, Salita Pantanna 4, Piazza Marina (tel: (091) 617 4040). Teatro F.Zappala, Via Autonomia Siciliana 125 (tel: (091) 543 380) features traditional performances in Sicilian dialect, while puppet shows, a big part of the local folklore (usually retelling the history of Sicily through battles between Moors and Christians), take place at Cuticchio, Via Bara all'Olivella 95 (tel: (091) 323 400) or Ippogrifo, Vicolo Ragusi (tel: (091) 329 194).