Where to stay in Poland

There are over 150 official hostels in Poland that are open all year round, and 450 only in the summer season. They are run by the Polish Youth Hostels Association (www.ptsm.org.pl), a member of Hostelling International (www.hihostels.com). You can find addresses on either site. When in big cities like Warsaw, Cracow or Wrocław, however, there’s no need to stay in official hostels, which can be soulless, rule-obsessed establishments. Instead, head for one of the new breed of independent hostels which are upbeat, friendly, cater to backpackers, always have internet access and sometimes boast an in-house bar or even club.

Agricultural tourism is a more recent business model. The accommodation is usually in farms, country homes and cottages. Some agricultural accommodation (kwatery agroturystyczne) serves organic food harvested on an adjacent farm and promotes outdoor activities, which may involve helping on the farm. Other places only nod to this concept by offering horse riding. In any case it’s a great way to meet local people and see the Polish countryside up close.

Another option is to rent a room in a private home. These are available in cities and at holiday destinations around the country. You can book them through special agencies or directly with the owner – look out for signs reading pokoje (rooms) or noclegi (lodging). The toilet facilities are usually shared, but otherwise you can close your door and enjoy as much privacy as you please.