Astronomical clock, Prague
© 123rf.com / Jeff Whyte
Things to see in Prague
Pražská Informacní Služba (PIS - Prague Information Service)
Tel: 2217 14444.
Website: www.praguewelcome.cz
Opening times: Mon-Fri 0900-1200, 1300-1600.
There are six PIS branches in Prague, plus one at the airport. The main tourist information centres can be found in the Old Town Hall, Staromìstské námìstí, Prague 1; Hlavní nádraží (main train station), Wilsonova, Prague 1; and, in the summer, at Malostranská mostecká vex (Lesser Town Bridge Tower), Prague 1.
The four-day Prague Card (www.praguecard.biz) allows unlimited travel on the metro, trams and buses, as well as admission to over 50 major attractions, including Prague Castle, the National Museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts. Passes without the transport charges are also available. These passes can be purchased from tourist information centres and offices of the Prague Public Transit Company (DP).
Until the end of the 19th century, the area north of the Old Town Square constituted the Jewish Ghetto. Much of the area was cleared to make way for art nouveau buildings, but some of the flavour still remains. A single ticket, available from the Jewish Museum (www.jewishmuseum.cz), allows admission to the Židovnická Radnice (Jewish Town Hall), the Klausen, the Maisel, the Pinkas Synagogue, the Spanish Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall. A separate ticket is required for the 13th-century Starovoná Synagoga (Old-New Synagogue), said to be the oldest synagogue in Europe, as well as the gallery and cemetery.
The construction of Prague's most famous and photographed location began in 1357, as part of Charles IV's monumental building programme. The bridge replaced the earlier Judita Bridge, a remnant of which is the plainer of the two towers on the Malá Strana gate. The bridge itself is rather drab and it is the later statues (Jesuit additions during the Counter-Reformation), which flank the bridge, that have made it so visually stunning. The first of these (the Crucifixion) was erected in 1657, the latest not until 1928. Fully pedestrianised, this bridge is a tourist focal point, and a sunset stroll here over the rolling Vltava is one of Prague’s quintessential experiences.
On the west bank of the Vltava is arguably the most romantic and atmospheric district of Prague, skirting the hill of Hradcany below the castles. A craftsman's quarter during the medieval period, this district, full of palaces, embassies and fantastically ornate churches, became the home of nobles in favour with the king. It has also historically been the preferred quarter for Prague's poets, artists and musicians, and even today you’ll hear the waft of music as you stroll down steep, cobbled streets lined with smoky cafés, bars and hidden jazz cellars.
This intimate museum is devoted exclusively to the work of the renowned art nouveau artist Alphonse Mucha. Czech Republic’s answer to Toulouse Lautrec, Mucha is most famous for the posters he designed for theatre productions starring the great fin-de-siècle actress Sarah Bernhardt, and these posters, on exhibit here, epitomise the art nouveau aesthetic. The collection includes phenomenal paintings, posters, sketches, statues and photographs by the artist, and also features Mucha's lesser-known works celebrating pan-Slavism, as well as a recreation of his Paris studio. Guided tours are available and there’s a pleasant terrace café worth visiting.
Surrounded by gothic spires, baroque houses and medieval streets, it’s easy to become absorbed in Prague’s ancient history, yet its most current chapters are no less fascinating or turbulent. The more recent Museum of Communism marks and explains events that occurred here under the totalitarian regime that lasted from the February coup in 1948 to its collapse in November 1989. The theme of the Museum is "Communism - the Dream, the Reality, and the Nightmare", and visitors will be treated to a fully immersive experience that even includes an Interrogation Room. Guaranteed to provide a fresh and thought-provoking perspective on Prague.
Národní Muzeum (National Museum) stands at the top of Wenceslas Square. Founded in 1818, it houses the country's oldest and largest collection of antiquities. Although the collections (dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology) are primarily of interest to specialists, the building itself warrants a visit. It is built on the site of the former Horse Gate, so named because Wenceslas Square once served as the main Prague horse market. Constructed in the neo-Renaissance style, the building’s impressive facade leads into an equally dramatic grand entrance hall with sweeping staircase and intricate stonework. A striking celebration of the history of the former Czechoslovakia.
The gem of art nouveau in Prague, Obecní Dùm has been fully restored, after decades of neglect. Designed by Antonin Balsánek and Osvald Polívka, all the major Czech artists made contributions during its construction. The most spectacular of the public areas is the Lord Mayor's Room, which features murals by Alfons Mucha. The restaurant, café and the Amerikanský bar were also the work of Polívka. The centrepiece of the building is the Smetana Hall, home of the Prague Symphony Orchestra and one of the major venues for concerts during the Prague Spring Festival. Guided tours are essential for visitors to see the rooms that are not open to the public.
Prague Castle, perched on the ridge of the Hradcany, dominates Prague's skyline. Entering under the Battling Titan statues, the sheer size of the complex (with three courtyards, fortifications and gardens, almost a small town in its own right) is immediately striking. Given the wealth of architecture, state apartments, churches, galleries and gardens, it is impossible to see everything in a single day. Individual attractions within the complex include the Cathedral of St Vitus, the castle’s oldest and most important site; the Old Royal Palace, former residence of Bohemian kings; Strahov Monestary; the Royal Garden; and Golden Lane.
The 12th-century Old Town Square is another focal point for tourists in Prague. In summer, tables spill out from the restaurants, while in December, the square hosts the city's largest Christmas Market. All of the palaces, churches and houses around the square are of major historical interest, but the gothic Staromestská Radnice (Old Town Hall) with its Astronomical Clock is a must for visitors. It strikes hourly (0900-2100), when the upper portion (from the early 15th century) reveals the Apostles at two windows. Just off the square, to the east, is the superb gothic Chrám Matky Boží Před Týnem (Tyn Church), where the tomb of the astronomer Tycho Brahe is found.
Despite its name, Wenceslas Square is really a long boulevard. It was here, in 1989, that the passive resistance culminating in the Velvet Revolution began. Today, the square is a bustling thoroughfare presenting the best and worst of post-Communist Prague - from the fashionable and expensive stores and restaurants to the prostitutes and taxis controlled by organised crime rings. Nothing remains of the square's earliest buildings, although examples of architectural styles from the last 150 years line its frontage. The lower portion is pedestrianised and contains many of Prague's largest stores. There are numerous arcades with winding passages (developed in the 1920s) and many have now being renovated to their original art deco splendour. The Lucerna is undoubtedly the finest of these arcades, housing a jazz/rock concert hall, cinema, cafés and numerous small shops.
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