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Introduction
Les Deux Alpes is a big, lively village, one of France's earliest ski resorts (from 1946), with old hotels side by side with modern developments. The skiing rises on both sides of the valley with lifts never more than a few yards from the main street.
The Pied Moutet area is small while the main area goes up and up to the big glacier, making it one of the world's highest resorts. The downside is that the ski area is quite narrow and everyone funnels down the same way.
The Pied Moutet area is small while the main area goes up and up to the big glacier, making it one of the world's highest resorts. The downside is that the ski area is quite narrow and everyone funnels down the same way.
Mountain facts
Resort elevation: 1,600m (5,249ft).
Top elevation: 3,600m (11,811ft).
Base elevation: 1,300m (4,270ft).
Number of lifts: 51.
Number of runs: 104.
Average annual snowfall: 7m (23ft).
Where in the world?
Les Deux Alpes sits high in the Dauphiné area of France's southern Alps.
Hit the slopes
The season runs from early December until mid April.
For beginners, the gentle slopes and drag lifts at the bottom work well, but ski school meets at mid-mountain Les Crêtes, creating queues for the gondola, then gridlock on the easy slopes above. The trick is to get past this up to the Toura area, where you can hit the runs (and off-piste terrain) down towards La Fee, or head further up to the bottom of the glacier for some decent cruising.
The glacier itself (open for summer skiing) is, although spectacular, barely worth the crush in the underground funicular unless you're intending to do the fabled runs from the top down to La Grave.
There are 200km (125 miles) of piste here, so lots to ski, and there's an impressive amount of off-piste skiing, although it's sometimes hard to find. Less proficient skiers face another challenge at the end of the day with the only way down to the village (aside from a couple of scrappy blacks) a busy, snaking path. There is a big terrain park.
Alpe d'Huez (twice weekly bus) and Serre Chevalier are included on the same lift pass.
For beginners, the gentle slopes and drag lifts at the bottom work well, but ski school meets at mid-mountain Les Crêtes, creating queues for the gondola, then gridlock on the easy slopes above. The trick is to get past this up to the Toura area, where you can hit the runs (and off-piste terrain) down towards La Fee, or head further up to the bottom of the glacier for some decent cruising.
The glacier itself (open for summer skiing) is, although spectacular, barely worth the crush in the underground funicular unless you're intending to do the fabled runs from the top down to La Grave.
There are 200km (125 miles) of piste here, so lots to ski, and there's an impressive amount of off-piste skiing, although it's sometimes hard to find. Less proficient skiers face another challenge at the end of the day with the only way down to the village (aside from a couple of scrappy blacks) a busy, snaking path. There is a big terrain park.
Alpe d'Huez (twice weekly bus) and Serre Chevalier are included on the same lift pass.
Beyond the slopes
Les Deux Alpes is a nice place to explore, but not somewhere you'd want to be for long unless you skied. There's an outdoor pool and ice rink (free on the lift pass), and a couple of sports centres with pools, squash, etc. There are also two bowling alleys, climbing wall, parapenting (parachuting off the mountain) and lots of picturesque mountain walks.
Beyond the resort, take the gondola down to the pretty village of Venosc. Helicopter flights are available to Alpe d'Huez.
Beyond the resort, take the gondola down to the pretty village of Venosc. Helicopter flights are available to Alpe d'Huez.
Family fun
Children will have fun here, although it's not the perfect family resort. There are several ski schools. British-run European Ski School (75 avenue de la Muzelle) offers only lessons in English, and is excellent with children (from age four). The Bonhomme de Neige centre (rue des Sagnes) offers non-ski childcare from six months to 12 years.
Retail therapy
There are plenty of shops, including a number of clothes stores with racks of knock-down fleeces, as well as trendier spots such as Quiksilver Boardriders Club (place des 2 Alpes). The La Marjolaine chocolate shop (114 avenue de la Muzelle) is exquisite, and Le Montagnard Gourmand (place des Arcades) is one of the best of the shops selling local meats, cheese, wines and drinks, such as the local liqueur genepi.
Après ski
Les Deux Alpes has a huge selection of bars...the names Pub Le Windsor (70 avenue de la Muzelle) and Smithy's (7 rue du Cairou), a cavernous restaurant, bar and party spot, betraying the British crowd which frequents them, although most bars here offer similar noisy, unsophisticated nightlife. For clubbing, try L'Avalanche (5 rue du Cairou) and L'Opéra (20 La Meije).
Eating out
There are around 80 places to choose between, from classic French to cheap and cheerful fare. Of the former, La Bel ‘Auberge (1 rue de la Chapelle) is a long-standing favourite. La Petite Marmite (70 avenue de la Muzelle) serves good food at decent prices, and is good for a family meal, while nearby Restaurant Les Fondues de la Raclette (86 avenue de la Muzelle) specialises in hearty local fare.
Getting around
You can get around the rather long resort on free buses.
Splashing out
Take a helicopter ride to Alpe d'Huez, for a day's skiing, just to explore or simply for the wonderful flight. Or hire a guide and book the helicopter for your own private heli-ski trip. Available through SAF Helicoptères (website: www.saf-helicopters.com).
Accommodation
Luxury
La FarandoleThis 4-star chalet-hotel in the centre of town and near the lifts has south-facing rooms and suites with views down the valley.
18 rue du Cairou
Tel: (04) 7680 5045.
Website: www.hotel-la-farandole.com
Moderate
Hotel AdretIn a quiet spot at the entrance to town, just 50m (165ft) from the nearest lift, with swimming pool, sun terrace and shuttle to ski school meeting point.
1 chemin de la Séa
Tel: (04) 7679 2430
Website: www.adret-hotel.com
Budget
Hotel Cote BruneCharming little place in the centre of town near the bottom of the slopes.
6 rue des Côtes Brunes
Tel: (04) 7680 5489.
Website: www.hotel-cotebrune.com
Getting there
Nearest airports: Grenoble (GNB); Chambéry (CMF); Lyon (LYS); Geneva (GVA).
Distance to resort: 120km (75 miles); 130km (80 miles); 160km (100 miles); 230km (143 miles).
Driving time: 2 hours; 2 hours; 3 hours 30 minutes; 4 hours.
Nearest railway station: Grenoble.
Distance to resort: 70km (44 miles).
Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes (bus service).
Distance to resort: 120km (75 miles); 130km (80 miles); 160km (100 miles); 230km (143 miles).
Driving time: 2 hours; 2 hours; 3 hours 30 minutes; 4 hours.
Nearest railway station: Grenoble.
Distance to resort: 70km (44 miles).
Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes (bus service).
Website
This resort is good for...
Après ski, Snowboarders, Families, Beginners, Intermediates, Experts, Summer skiing
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