Saalbach-Hinterglemm

Saalbach-Hinterglemm is one of Austria's great individual ski areas, with more than 200km (125 miles) of the finest intermediate pistes you could imagine. The skiing runs along one side of the Glemm Valley then back down the other, so in an easy day you can do the complete circuit.

At one end is the main resort of Saalbach, a classic Austrian village with onion-domed church, cobbled streets and a lively night-time scene. Halfway along (about 4km/2.5 miles) is Hinterglemm, equally charming but smaller and more relaxed.

Together they make an upmarket but surprisingly youthful spot, also linked to Leogang, a detour from the main circuit with fantastic long pistes straight down into the trees.

Resort elevation: 1,000m (3,280ft).

Top elevation: 2,095m (6,870ft).

Base elevation: 930m (3,050ft).

Number of lifts: 55.

Number of runs: 66.

Average annual snowfall: 9m (29ft).

Saalbach-Hinterglemm is in the Austrian Alps, an easy drive from the city of Salzburg.

The season runs from early December until early April.

More than 90% of the area is rated intermediate or easy, so this is a place for letting the skis run through delightful tree-lined scenery on mainly south-facing slopes. Although it's not high, an ever-increasing amount of snowmaking keeps everything going.

The Ski Circus as it's called is a joyous day out, with lunch taken at one of the historic mountain restaurants. Otherwise, you can concentrate on one area - better skiers use Schattberg Ost, where the 4km (2.5-mile) Nordabfaht is a fast, steep black with constantly changing conditions. The World Cup downhill on Zwolferkogel is enjoyable too - good skiers can make their own fun on copious off-piste terrain.

Saalbach's nursery areas can get slushy, but Hinterglemm's is north facing. There are two terrain parks, and the whole place works well for snowboarders.

Saalbach is not really a place to visit if you don't ski, or if you want lots of other activities. There are the usual things - tobogganing, bowling, sleigh rides - and many of the bigger hotels have pools and spas.

Nine ski schools operate here, with lessons from age four. Crèches are limited to hotels, but can be excellent - such as the one at the Hotel Theresia (see Accommodation below). Hinterglemm has an indoor swimming pool, and many of the larger hotels have pools and playrooms.

This is not a place for shopping. There are a handful of ski shops and boutiques on Saalbach's pedestrianised high street, but prices tend to be keener in less-busy Hinterglemm. If you're looking for local colour, you'll find chocolates, knitwear and wood carvings.

Classic Austrian après ski is on offer with beer, schnapps and dancing in ski boots. As the lifts shut try Hinterhagalm on the slopes above Saalbach, or Bauer's Skialm (Oberdorf 232) and the outdoor bar at the Hotel zur Dorfschmiede (Dorfstrasse 129), both at the bottom of the slopes. The Goasstall (Reiterkogelweg 491) above Hinterglemm is also fun.

By night there's plenty of choice until late - in Saalbach there' the Kuhstall bar with live music, the Arena disco (both in the Alpenhotel, Dorfstrasse 212) and King's Disco (Sporthotel Berger, Dorfstrasse 33), or in Hinterglemm there's the Glemmerkeller (Glemmtalerlaudstrasse 150), Road King (Dorfstrasse 129) and Tanzhimmel (Hotel Knappenhof).

There are plenty more, but it's not all high energy stuff. The bar at the Hotel Theresia in Hinterglemm is cool and relaxing with an Andy Warhol original on the wall.

Saalbach-Hinterglemm has dozens of restaurants, many with excellent Austrian specialities involving dumplings, noodles and so on (and, increasingly, elk and wild boar). The culinary star is the Hotel Theresia (see Accommodation below) with its modern take on cuisine in an eclectic setting, although many others are splendid. Peter's Restaurant (Oberdorf 177) on Saalbach's main street is famed for its steak cooked on hot stones. Other than that, there are plenty of ski resort staples.

Buses between the two villages are free if you show your lift pass.

Spend an evening on the mountain. One option involves a snowcat ride (you stand in a big, open-air container on the back) which growls through the forest to the Spielberghaus (website: www.spielberghaus.at). The other is a relaxed sleigh ride through the wilderness up to the Lindlingalm (website: www.lindlingalm.at). Both restaurants serve up hearty, traditional Austrian specialities in a cosy setting. Afterwards you return to your sleigh. But if you've taken the snowcat option, you toboggan down instead.

Luxury

Hotel Theresia
By the Hinterglemm lifts, this divine place looks traditional outside but inside is minimalist and hip with spa, pools, two wonderful restaurants and a whole wing of family rooms, with childcare to match.

House number 208, Hinterglemm
Tel: (06541) 74140.
Website: www.hotel-theresia.co.at

Luxury

Alpenhotel
Stylishly typical for this part of the world, this Saalbach hotel is almost a village in itself with piano bar, music bar, disco and several restaurants including Italian, Mexican and a pizzeria-bar open until 0300.

Dorfstrasse 212, Saalbach
Tel: (06541) 66660.
Website: www.alpenhotel.at

Moderate

Hotel Haider
Warm and friendly, perfectly placed across from the lifts in Saalbach.

Oberdorf 211, Saalbach
Tel: (06541) 6228.
Website: www.hotel-haider.at

Nearest airport: Salzburg (SZG).

Distance to resort: 90km (56 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.

Nearest railway station: Zell am See.

Distance to resort: 18km (11 miles),

Driving time: 20 minutes.

Beginners, Families, Intermediates, Après ski, Snowboarders