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Introduction
Flaine is an anomaly amongst the world's leading ski resorts. At first glance many dismiss it as a typical, ugly, concrete resort thrown up like so many in the French Alps during the 1960s. But look again and you may just realise that Flaine is, in fact, a huge work of art, designed by architect Marcel Breuer, a master of the Bauhaus style who needed a special licence to be allowed to work in France.
The artistic theme goes beyond the architecture, with several large public art works at the base of the slopes, including a Picasso. But your eyes may be drawn away from this and up to the vast snowy bowl beyond, surrounding Flaine. Take one of the many lifts to the top and you'll have a great view of Mt Blanc in one direction, or perhaps down to one of the four traditional villages which share the huge Grand Massif area with Flaine. These include Morillon, Les Carroz, Samoëns and Sixt in the valleys below.
Whilst other 1960s resorts have begun demolishing or beautifying their concrete constructions, Flaine remains resolutely proud of its artistic design. Its self confidence has recently been rewarded with the news that North American resort designers Intrawest will build their second European ski village here. Construction is well underway, with properties being released between 2008 and 2012. They want to maintain the artistic theme and Flaine plans to upgrade lifts and runs in keeping with this renewed importance.
The artistic theme goes beyond the architecture, with several large public art works at the base of the slopes, including a Picasso. But your eyes may be drawn away from this and up to the vast snowy bowl beyond, surrounding Flaine. Take one of the many lifts to the top and you'll have a great view of Mt Blanc in one direction, or perhaps down to one of the four traditional villages which share the huge Grand Massif area with Flaine. These include Morillon, Les Carroz, Samoëns and Sixt in the valleys below.
Whilst other 1960s resorts have begun demolishing or beautifying their concrete constructions, Flaine remains resolutely proud of its artistic design. Its self confidence has recently been rewarded with the news that North American resort designers Intrawest will build their second European ski village here. Construction is well underway, with properties being released between 2008 and 2012. They want to maintain the artistic theme and Flaine plans to upgrade lifts and runs in keeping with this renewed importance.
Mountain facts
Resort elevation: 1,600m (5,249ft).
Top elevation: 2,480m (8,136ft).
Base elevation: 1,600m (5,249ft).
Number of lifts: 26.
Number of runs: 52.
Average annual snowfall: 5m (16.4ft).
Where in the world?
Flaine lies in the northern part of the French Alps in the Haute-Savoie region of southeastern France, between Geneva and Chamonix. It is surrounded by several major ski regions: in the north by Les Portes du Soleil, in the east by the Aravis, and in the south by the Mt Blanc region.
Hit the slopes
The season runs from early December until late April.
Flaine sits at the heart of the Grand Massif, one of the world's biggest ski areas, with 265km (167 miles) of trails for all standards of skier and boarder. The 140km (87 miles) of runs local to Flaine are largely located within a vast, mostly treeless snow bowl with dozens of trails leading down in to it, most ultimately returning to the large nursery area at the base of the slopes. The north-facing slopes here normally ensure good snow.
A fast, queue-gobbling eight-seater chairlift whisks skiers and boarders over the back of the resort to link to some wonderful long ski runs down through the forest to neighbouring villages that also participate in the Grand Massif, including Morillon and Samoëns. The longest of these runs is Cascades, a famous 14km (9-mile) trail with spectacular panoramic views.
The lift back to Flaine is slightly less accommodating than the eight-seater chair and there can be crowded bottlenecks at peak periods, but the resort is working to rectify this.
Most of the vast terrain is suited to intermediates but for advanced skiers there are 12 black trails, including one of the longest in the Alps down to Samoëns. The Combe de Gers powder bowl is also popular and off-piste courses are run by the ski schools.
Flaine sits at the heart of the Grand Massif, one of the world's biggest ski areas, with 265km (167 miles) of trails for all standards of skier and boarder. The 140km (87 miles) of runs local to Flaine are largely located within a vast, mostly treeless snow bowl with dozens of trails leading down in to it, most ultimately returning to the large nursery area at the base of the slopes. The north-facing slopes here normally ensure good snow.
A fast, queue-gobbling eight-seater chairlift whisks skiers and boarders over the back of the resort to link to some wonderful long ski runs down through the forest to neighbouring villages that also participate in the Grand Massif, including Morillon and Samoëns. The longest of these runs is Cascades, a famous 14km (9-mile) trail with spectacular panoramic views.
The lift back to Flaine is slightly less accommodating than the eight-seater chair and there can be crowded bottlenecks at peak periods, but the resort is working to rectify this.
Most of the vast terrain is suited to intermediates but for advanced skiers there are 12 black trails, including one of the longest in the Alps down to Samoëns. The Combe de Gers powder bowl is also popular and off-piste courses are run by the ski schools.
Beyond the slopes
Flaine is one of the livelier purpose-built ski resorts. There's a good little bowling complex in one of the resort's indoor mini malls. There's also a small cultural centre containing unusual displays of artwork in keeping with Flaine's heritage. Other indoor facilities include a cinema, swimming pool and fitness centre.
Outdoor options include paragliding, helicopter sightseeing flights, snowshoeing, dog sledding, an ice rink, an ice-driving school and snowmobile tours.
Outdoor options include paragliding, helicopter sightseeing flights, snowshoeing, dog sledding, an ice rink, an ice-driving school and snowmobile tours.
Family fun
Almost completely car free, with a compact centre, affordable restaurants and an extensive nursery ski area, Flaine is a good choice for families. Children from six months old can be cared for in the Petits Loups nursery (Administration Building, Flaine Forum), then there's ski kindergarten from age three with either the International Ski School or the Ecole de Ski Français (ESF) (nursery slopes, Flaine Forum).
There's lots for children to do besides ski including ice karting (from age six) and indoor climbing, and there's a playpark with mini toboggan hill at the base of the slopes.
There's lots for children to do besides ski including ice karting (from age six) and indoor climbing, and there's a playpark with mini toboggan hill at the base of the slopes.
Retail therapy
There is an adequate selection of about 20 shops covering all the essentials, especially ski gear. Most are concentrated in two small malls or along the snow front at the base of the ski runs. Douce France (Flaine Forêt) sells regional specialities including a wide choice of wine and cheese.
Après ski
Flaine's après-ski scene is concentrated on half a dozen bars at the base of the slopeside apartment complexes. One of the busiest is the ‘real English/Irish Pub', the White Grouse (Flaine Forum) which serves a good range of beers and spirits and has been under English ownership for many years. The Flying Dutchman (Flaine Forêt) is a better choice if you prefer your entertainment to be from south of the Channel. There's usually a party atmosphere, enthused by a wide selection of European beers.
Eating out
There are more than 20 places to eat around Flaine with budget to mid-range eateries the norm. La Perdrix Noire (Flaine Forêt) offers house specialities including grills, seafood, cheese and meat fondues. Sucré Salé (Flaine Forêt) follows Flaine's artistic theme by surrounding diners with artwork; chef's specialities include pitta and home-made pastry. Restaurant Savoyard (Hôtel Aujon, Flaine Forum) serves Savoyard specialities and reservations are recommended.
Getting around
Most of Flaine is designed for pedestrian or skier access with paths, steps, ski runs and pedestrian lifts linking the different levels. Cars are banned from the resort except for loading and unloading baggage on departure/arrival; extensive car parking is provided. A free shuttle bus circulates around the few outlying points.
Splashing out
You can experience the thrill of controlling a car on Flaine's 1,000m (3,300ft) ice circuit (website: www.circuitglace.com) which recreates the difficulties encountered on a mountain road, with fast curves, bends, hairpin bends, ascents and descents.
Accommodation
Moderate
La CascadeStay on the piste, but five minutes' walk from central Flaine, in a beautiful wooden mountain restaurant.
Flaine Forêt
Tel: (04) 5090 8766.
Website: www.lacascade-flaine.fr
Moderate
Ski Chalets Le Hameau de FlaineUnique in the Alps, comprising 70 colourful and comfortable ski chalets built in a genuine Scandinavian style.
Le Hameau de Flaine
Tel: (04) 5090 4040.
Website: www.home-international.com
Budget
MMV Hotel Club AujonSki club hotel in the centre of Flaine Forum, close to the ski lifts and slopes. Family suites available, with Wi-Fi access, and children's club (18 months to four years).
Flaine Forum
Tel: (04) 9212 6212.
Website: www.mmv.fr
Getting there
Nearest airport: Geneva (GVA).
Distance to resort: 69km (43 miles).
Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.
Nearest railway station: Cluses.
Distance to resort: 25km (16 miles).
Driving time: 30 minutes.
Distance to resort: 69km (43 miles).
Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.
Nearest railway station: Cluses.
Distance to resort: 25km (16 miles).
Driving time: 30 minutes.
Website
This resort is good for...
Families, Snow reliability, Beginners, Snowboarders, Intermediates, Experts
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