Livigno Guide | Ski Resort Travel Guide

Introduction

Livigno has grown from being a small, isolated settlement to become one of the world's leading ski resorts.

Its success is down to slightly more unusual factors than most. Firstly, its high altitude has made it one of the most snowsure resorts in Europe. Skiing down to the village is normal throughout the season. Secondly, its isolation made it too difficult for tax inspectors to reach in olden times, which eventually led to Livigno becoming a tax-free haven.

So today the resort offers that Holy Grail of skiing - superb snow, and excellent, low-priced après ski. It's all very recent. Fifty years ago the area remained cut off for much of the year, but the first ski lift arrived in 1958, the hotel count reached four by the early 1960s, and Livigno's rise has been meteoric ever since. Today there are more than 100 hotels and 115km (66 miles) of piste.

Mountain facts

Resort elevation: 1,816m (5,958ft).

Top elevation: 2,797m (9,176ft).

Base elevation: 1,816m (5,856ft).

Number of lifts: 35.

Number of runs: 74.

Average annual snowfall: 2m (6.7ft).

Piste map

Snow report

Webcam

Where in the world?

Livigno is in the northern Italian province of Lombardy on the border of the Dolomite mountains to the south and of the Alps to the north, as well as being close to the Swiss border, a few kilometres to the north.

Hit the slopes

The season runs from early December until late April.

Livigno's skiing is basically divided in two by the valley road along which the resort stretches. The two halves are both accessed by high-capacity, high-speed gondolas (Mottolino or the two-stage Carosello 3000) and by the growing network of high-speed chairlifts.

The ski area is characterised by a series of village-side nursery slopes on the meadows beside the resort, then long fast, open ‘motorway' runs above and a few steep blacks below the area's highest skiing at Mt Della Neve.

Thanks to its altitude, the village nursery slopes are normally snowsure throughout the season. An area pass covering resorts in the surrounding Alta Valtellina region including Bormio and Santa Caterina as well as a day over the border in St Moritz is available (minimum duration six days).

Beyond the slopes

There's a lot to do in Livigno away from the ski slopes. There are swimming pools in the hotels Spöl and Helvetia, five gyms and fitness centres, bowling, badminton courts and billiards. The local chess club meets in the Bar Caravasc.

Outdoors try snowshoeing, dog sledding, ice driving, ice skating, snowmobiling, quad biking and paragliding.

Family fun

On the whole Livigno is a good choice for families with affordable dining (pizza and spaghetti bolognese!) and wide, sunny slopes. The only possible downside is the busy road through the centre.

There is a choice of pre-ski-school nurseries, although several have limited hours such as mornings or weekdays only. Kinderheim Biancaneve has longer opening hours and accepts children from age three. It is located just next to the ski school in the centre of Livigno.

Retail therapy

Livigno has an incredible 200 shops, the vast majority small corner stores selling alcohol, tobacco products, perfumes and consumer electronics - in short anything that usually carries a hefty tax burden. It's certainly unusual to a visit a ski resort for cheaper shopping than back home for this kind of item.

Beyond the duty-free excess, there are the regular resort selection of ski shops, souvenir outlets and a few jewellers, grocers and fashion boutiques.

Après ski

Livigno has 137 bars, more than any other ski resort in the world (Vail is second with 111). Given the choice, since all serve alcohol at lower prices than you'll find in other European ski areas, you might expect more of a party atmosphere. But whilst Livigno can be lively, the vast majority of bars are small and spread out along the valley road.

In the long list of popular places, Gulliver Pub (Via Canton 256) has a huge selection of beers and spirits. The Echo Pub (Via Pontiglia 37) serves microbrewery beers and Jpioca (Via Botarel 52) is a good cocktail bar.

Eating out

There are more than 100 places to eat around Livigno, mostly small family cafe-diners serving traditional Italian food. Almost all offer a daily, fixed price, set Menu Turistico.

Ristorante il Cantuccio (Via Saroch 1019) has a better than average selection of pastas whilst the Ristorante la Pòsa (Via Taglieda 58) is one of the best pizzerias in town.

Getting around

The resort is about 8km (5 miles) long having grown along the road to join three former villages together. Pavements are limited away from the main areas. A free ski bus circulates up and down the main road.

Splashing out

Ice-driving courses are offered on a 1.2km (0.7-mile) course on Livigno's frozen lake (website: www.ghiacciodromo.com).

Accommodation

Luxury

Hotel Amerikan
Well-located 4-star hotel with wellness centre incorporating sauna, Turkish bath, whirlpool and gym.

Via Florin 77/93
Tel: (0342) 992 011.
Website: www.amerikan.it

Moderate

Hotel Centro
Recently refurbished, very central 2-star hotel, only 50m (160ft) from the ski lifts.

Via Fontana 26D
Tel: (0342) 996 092.
Website: www.hotelcentros.it