Arinsal is one of the most attractive villages in Andorra and is awash with traditional architecture.

There has been a minor identity crisis in recent times however, for the resort's marketing department at least, who have changed its name twice in the past few years. First to Pal-Arinsal to celebrate the creation of a gondola link between the two ski areas, and more recently to VallNord, a partnership that also ties in the ski area of Ordino-Arcalis and another resort base linked by gondola to Pal's ski area, La Massana. Andorra now has only two ski regions - VallNord and Grandvalira, the latter encompassing six village bases, the best known being Pas de la Casa and Soldeu.

Along with name changes the ski area has seen many physical enhancements in recent years as Andorran skiing has moved ever more upmarket. Modern lifts have been installed and the professionalism with which the ski areas are managed has reached ever higher standards. This may have quietened Arinsal's ‘cheap and cheerful' image of the 1970s and ‘80s but it remains a fun place to stay. The lift pass also costs considerably less than Grandvalira's.

Resort elevation: 1,780m (5,840ft).

Top elevation: 2,560m (8,399ft).

Base elevation: 1,550m (5,085ft).

Number of lifts: 44.

Number of runs: 87.

Average annual snowfall: 2.5m (8.3ft).

Arinsal is part of the VallNord ski resort which takes up much of the northern half of the small principality of Andorra. Andorra is sandwiched between Spain to the west and France to the east in the Pyrenean mountains and is about 160km (100 miles) north of the Mediterranean Sea.

The season runs from the end of November until late April.

Arinsal has a reputation for offering family-friendly skiing on wide, sunny slopes. This was once a bit off-putting for more advanced skiers, but the opening of a new gondola in 2000, linking the local ski slopes to those of neighbouring Pal, greatly increased the choice of terrain. Access to the slopes from Arinsal centre has also improved with the opening of a gondola from the village centre straight up to the snowsure centre of the ski area.

Beginners normally start off in the Prat de la Coma sector and intermediates will enjoy runs like La Solana, one of the longest in the principality at 6km (4 miles). Intermediates will most enjoy the slopes of Pal, particularly its contrasting tree-lined runs. Experts have more limited choice, but the La Devesa black directly above Cota is reputed to be the steepest in Andorra. There's a second black, La Comellada, on the Pal side along with four International Ski Federation approved slalom slopes.

In recent seasons Arinsal has made a major effort with freestyle facilities, creating ‘Freestyle Start' areas in both Arinsal and Pal where first-timers can try freeriding. There are also extensive terrain parks and pipes, rated as some of the best in southern Europe.

Holders of the local VallNord lift ticket are entitled to ski at a third area, Ordino-Arcalis, which has a reputation for steeper runs and off-piste terrain. A 15-minute helicopter transfer service is available. The Ski Andorra ticket also covers the principality's other resort, Grandvalira, with skiing at Soldeu and Pas de la Casa about half an hour away.

Although primarily a straightforward ski-and-nightlife resort, Arinsal does offer other activities. Be wary and check that these are actually in Arinsal however, as facilities in neighbouring Vallnord villages such as Pal and Ordino can be listed as Arinsal attractions when in reality they are some distance away - if not that far.

A case in point is the sports centre in Ordino, approximately 5km (3 miles) away, or the Palau de Gel ice rink in Canillo, around 25km (16 miles) from the resort. It also has an Olympic-sized swimming pool, squash courts, sauna and gym.

The famous and excellent Caldea spa in Andorra la Vella offers linked indoor and outdoor pools, fountains and waterfalls, saunas, Jacuzzis, Turkish baths, hydrotherapy and massage.

Other possibilities include dog sledding and snowmobiling.

Arinsal is a good choice for families because it has good natural ski terrain, enhanced by specially created fun areas for children and excellent nurseries and ski school. Off the slopes, Arinsal is affordable for family lodging and dining. Family activities include bowling and toboganning and there are even special child-sized snowmobiles.

The local ski school runs a Babyclub for children aged one to four, with ski school accepting children from age four.

Andorra is famous for its duty-free shopping and Arinsal is no exception, with a small shopping area offering alcohol, cigarettes, perfume, electronic goods at very affordable prices. For a wider choice it's a 15-minute trip to the capital, La Vella.

It's worth signing up for the free VallNord Club, a discount scheme which gives savings (typically of 5 to 10%) in most shops, restaurants and some other attractions in VallNord and in some cases further afield. There are even savings at some shops over the border in Spain.

Famed for its affordable and often lively après ski, Arinsal has two dozen bars, most of which double as eateries. Depending on your mood, the Derby, Carretera General, has an Irish atmosphere, while Quo Vadis, Carretera General, is a traditional English pub. La Jungla, Carretera General, has a laid-back ambience with chill-out music. The Disco-pub Solana, Carretera General, is a good choice for later on.

There's a more limited selection of bars in the neighbouring resort bases at Pal and La Massana (although the latter is larger than Arinsal).

Arinsal has a good selection of restaurants for its size, with meals ranging from local Catalan or French regional cuisine to international styles you might not expect to find in an Andorran ski area.

A good choice for local food is El Planells, Carretera General, while Bella Italia, Carretera General, is the pasta option.

More far-flung flavours are served up by Surf, Carretera General, an Argentinian restaurant specialising in meat dishes, and MexicObelix, Carretera General, for spicy Central American dishes.

A shuttle bus circulates around the Arinsal valley and the wider VallNord area. However, since the opening of the gondola from the village centre to the slopes, many properties are now within walking distance of the ski lifts.

Take to the air on a helicopter sightseeing trip. Available through the tourist office.

Luxury

Hotel Princesa Parc
One of the new breed of high-calibre hotels in Andorra, this 4-star hotel was built in 2000, and is close to the gondola (150m/490ft) and resort centre (100m/330ft), but far enough away and well enough equipped to spend your whole week there.

Carretera General
Tel: 736 400.
Website: www.hotelprincesaparc.com

Moderate

Husa Xalet Besolí
Modern 3-star hotel close to the lifts. Its well-sized rooms have balconies and there's a games room with billiard table and video games.

Carretera Escladella
Tel: 836 336.
Website: www.hotelhusaxaletbesoli.com

Budget

Aparthotel Poblado
Friendly 1- to-3-star (depending on which rating you take) central hotel, only 20m (66ft) from the gondola.

Carretera General
Tel: 837 237.
Website: www.aparthotel-poblado.com

Nearest airports: Toulouse (TLS); Barcelona (BCN).

Distance to resort: 150km (93 miles); 200km (125 miles).

Driving time: 2 hours 30 minutes; 3 hours 10 minutes.

Nearest railway station: Ax Les Thermes, France.

Distance to resort: 50km (31 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour.

Snowboarders, Après ski, Intermediates, Families, Beginners