Bansko

Quaint Bansko is a small mountain town with hundreds of years of history. Lying at the foot of the Pirin Mountains and founded in the 10th century on a Thracian settlement, it is small enough to walk around, yet provides great variety.

The old centre has traditional Bulgarian stone-and-timber houses, open public squares, cobbled streets and winding roads. Yet the town is facing a transformation. Cranes, diggers and building sites, especially in the area west of the Glazne River, are the sure proof of a construction boom, in what is already one of Europe's fastest growing winter holiday destinations.

Bansko's historic Balkan character, as encapsulated in the local cuisine, wine and music, is thankfully hanging on. Nominated to host the 2014 Winter Olympics (Sochi in Russia being the eventual winner), its popularity grows every year and a second gondola is expected to cut down the long queues to reach the top of the slopes.

Resort elevation: 925m (3,035ft).

Top elevation: 2,560m (8,399ft).

Base elevation: 990m (3,248ft).

Number of lifts: 30.

Number of runs: 14.

Average annual snowfall: 2m (6.6 ft).

Bansko is situated on the River Glazne in the northeastern foothills of the Pirin mountains, 165km (103 miles) south of the capital Sofia and 50km (31 miles) east of the border with Macedonia. It lies north of Pirin National Park and its highest mountain, Mt Vihren, peaks at 2,914m (9,560ft).

The official season runs from mid December to mid April.

The runs are roughly divided into the following levels: 35% beginners, 40% intermediate and 25% advanced, with the longest run at 16km (10 miles). Bansko is in desperate need of its second gondola, which will begin construction in 2008. Over 40 snow cannons cover most of the slopes with artificial snow, boosting the resort's natural base.

The Ulen Ski and Snowboard School is the largest in the region, offering ski and snowboard lessons for all levels. Equipment hire is available at many stores located near the gondola, on ulitsa Pirin.

Bansko's history comes to life in the old town. Worth visiting are the dark, peaceful Sveta Troitsa Church (ploshtad Vuzhrazhdane) with its 30m- (98ft-) high clock tower built in 1835, and the Icon Museum (ulitsa Yane Sandanski 3), which houses works by local 19th-century painters. The magnificent Rila Monastery can be visited in a day trip by car or bus.

There are plenty of ski and snowboard schools suitable for children, including Ulen, by the lift station, which also has a kindergarten for four- to seven-year-olds, with drag lifts, ski roundabout and fun facilities.

Adjacent to the Hotel Strazhite (ulitsa Glazne 7) is a bowling alley, and there is an ice rink (ulitsa Pirin) near the Kempinski Hotel. For younger kids, Babini (ulitsa Bratya Veleganovi St 14B) is a craft centre and cafe offering DIY pottery, painting and sock-knitting in a cosy atmosphere.

The Sunday morning market (ulitsa Tsar Simeon) is one of the liveliest in southern Bulgaria, selling cheap clothes, shoes and souvenirs. Souvenir shops dotted around the town sell distinctive hand-woven striped rugs, colourful cloth bags, hand-painted pottery, huge cow bells and wooden kitchen utensils.

The street-stall in the middle of ploshtad Nikola Vapstarov has a good selection, and the Crafts & Textile Exhibition, adjacent to House-Museum of Nikola Vaptsarov (ploshtad Nikola Vaptsarov) has hand-embroidered clothing and fabrics.

Although not the place for fashion-label hunting, there are plenty of clothes, sunglasses and jewellery shops along ulitsa Pirin.

Instead of chic après ski, Bansko offers a more earthy, traditional Bulgarian night out. In addition to the plethora of mehanas (see Eating Out below), where the local wines flow with the food and music, a smattering of down-to-earth bars and clubs are located around ploshtad Vazrazhdane in the old part of town.

Happy End (ulitsa Pirin, next to the lift station) is a large, lively bar attracting a wide range of skiers straight from the slopes, with occasional live music. Cocktails at Amigo Bar (ulitsa Pirin) and the Sky Sports channel in the very English Lion Pub (ulitsa Pirin 90A) are very popular.

Dotted around the town are over 40 mehanas - the wonderful traditional eating houses, where fine local wine and sometimes live folk music (in busy seasons) accompany hearty Bulgarian food. There is little to choose between them - the décor is usually dark wood and striped hand-woven clothes, and menus are similarly offering meats, decent salads, fish (in season) and traditional dishes.

The occasional snack stall has pizza slices, burgers or freshly-made pancakes for a lunchtime bite.

Bansko is small enough to get around on foot, and the gondola can be reached easily from most parts of town.

Leap out of a hot-air balloon onto the slopes (tickets available at the main ticket office). The spa at the luxurious Kempinski Hotel (ulitsa Pirin 96) can be used by non-guests to indulge in massage, sauna, and a range of beauty treatments. Sample Bulgaria's finest wines, especially the reds from nearby Melnik.

Luxury

Kempinski Hotel Grand Arena
Bansko's only 5-star hotel is situated next to the gondola and has 132 spacious rooms and 27 suites, as well as a pool, sauna and well-equipped spa.

ulitsa Pirin 96
Tel: (0749) 88888.
Website: www.kempinski-bansko.com

Moderate

Avalon Hotel
In a quiet part of Bansko near the old town, this medium-sized family-run hotel has simple rooms, the luxury doubles including balcony, living room and cable TV. 

El Tepe 4
Tel: (0749) 88399.
Website: www.avalonhotel-bulgaria.com

Budget

Dvata Smircha
This unpretentious family-run guest house has cosy rooms, and is set in a peaceful garden, with a lively mehana on the ground floor.  

ulitsa Velyan Ognev 2
Tel: (0749) 82632.

Nearest airport: Sofia (SOF).

Distance to resort: 170km (106 miles).

Driving time: 2 hours 30 minutes.

www.banskoski.com or www.bansko.bg

Non-skiers, Families, Experts, Intermediates, Snowboarders, Beginners