Ellmau

Ellmau is one of the larger resorts on the Skiwelt, arguably Austria's largest ski area with 250km (157 miles) of lift-linked terrain. The area is further connected to Kitzbühel's skiing by the Ki-West gondola and a short bus link to create one of the world's biggest ski areas. Unfortunately in these days of climate-change concerns, it is also one of the lowest major ski areas in the Alps, but it does boast Austria's largest snowmaking arsenal in a bid to counter this.

Ellmau itself is a very attractive, traditional resort, set against the splendour of the Wilder Kaiser (Wild Emperor) mountains rising high above. Some family-run hotels here have been welcoming guests for almost two centuries.

The base of the ski area, served by Austria's longest funicular railway (athough it's fast too, taking just four minutes to make the ascent), is right on the edge of town, so a ski bus is usually needed to start your day, unless you opt to stay out of the resort centre in one of the slopeside hotels.

Resort elevation: 820m (2,690ft).

Top elevation: 1,956m (6,417ft). (All statistics are for the Skiwelt Region; Ellmau does not publish separate figures).

Base elevation: 650m (2,133ft).

Number of lifts: 122.

Number of runs: 89.

Average annual snowfall: 3m (10ft).

Ellmau is located in the Wilder Kaiser part of the Kitzbuheler Alps region within the province of Tirol, in northwest Austria, very close to the German border.

The ski season runs from mid December to mid April.

Ellmau is located at one end of the giant Skiwelt area, which stretches for nearly 16km (10 miles) towards Westendorf at the other side, taking in the ski areas of eight resorts, all of them increasingly well linked by high-speed lifts (except Westendorf, a short bus ride from Brixen). A new high-speed detachable six-person chairlift introduced for winter 2007/8, Tanzbodenbahn, has improved the connection between Ellmau and Scheffau, while treating users to the ultimate in comfort with its integrated seat heating. 

Ellmau's own skiing has a particularly strong reputation for beginners, with a separate nursery slope in the village centre (snow cover permitting), served by a state-of-the-art covered magic carpet conveyor lift. The resort's three ski schools are also highly regarded.

Intermediates will enjoy the ski area beyond this the most, with all but eight of the trails rated easy or moderate. The day begins on the funicular up the local Hartkaiser mountain, and if you're prepared to take a bus back, you could end up as far away as Kitzbühel! If you purchase the Kitzbuheler Alpen Pass and have your own transport you could also ski in the nearby Schneewinkel area centred on St Johann in Tirol.

Experts have more limited terrain but the extent of the ski area means they shouldn't get bored. The Silleralm and Eiberg runs on the neighbouring Hohe Salve mountain are highly recommended.

The main off-slope facility is the KaiserBad leisure centre which features indoor and outdoor pools in the winter and a wonderful 92m (302ft) slide. There is also a sauna, health centre and a traditional bowling alley.

Outdoor alternatives include sleigh rides, a 4.5km (3-mile) toboggan run down from Astberg and 55km (35 miles) of cleared winter footpaths.

Trips to Kitzbühel (by ski or bus) or Salzburg are easy and worthwhile.

Ellmau is a good choice for families in most respects - it's attractive, relaxed, unintimidating, with excellent nursery slopes, a highly rated ski school, the excitement of the funicular railway up the mountain and the great leisure pool for après-ski fun. The only minor negatives are the spread-out nature of the village and ski slopes and the often busy roads.

There is also limited nursery care for the youngest children; Krabbelstube Max & Moritz in the village school provides cover from Monday to Friday. In addition several of the larger British tour operators (Crystal, Inghams) organise their own kids' clubs in resort hotels, taking children from age three. The three ski schools accept children from age three and compete on child-friendliness so are all highly rated.

Ellmau has a larger selection of shops than most of the other Skiwelt resorts, with some 35 outlets to choose from. These include a good selection of ski shops and traditional local food producers including several butchers, bakers and grocers.  

There's also a supermarket, chemist, hairdressers, post office, tobacconists and of course souvenir shops.

Ellmau is not as lively as neighbouring resorts like Söll, Westendorf and Kitzbühel, but does have several lively choices among the 10 bars locally. These include Otzy (Dorf 43), which sometimes has karaoke evenings, and the Cafe Pub Memory (Dorf 39), which is often busy as soon as the lifts close.

Later on the Tenne nightclub (Dorf 50) and the Heldenbar (Dorf 7), which sometimes has live music, are the places to go.

If you haven't had enough snow in the day, every Thursday at 2030 there's a snow night at Stangl-Leit'n with a show and glühwein.

There are more than 30 restaurants to choose from in Ellmau, most of them a part of the various hotels and most serving traditional Austrian Tirolean cuisine including fondues and strudel. The slopeside EllmauerAlm (Alte Strasse 4A) is a first-rate example of this style of dining.

For something different the restaurant Ellmau (Dorf 7) serves Chinese cuisine and the Pizzeria Sterndl (Dorf 21) is the best Italian choice.

The base of the main ski area, the resort, and some of the accommodation is rather spread out, so the free bus service (show your hotel guest card), which usually performs well, is very useful. It is possible to get from the village to the base of the main ski area by drag lift if snow conditions are good and you are confident to use the lift.

Travel to neighbouring resorts is possible on the normal Postbus service (not included in lift passes).

Take a day off the slopes and submerge yourself in luxury at the Hotel der Bär's beauty and wellness centre (see Accommodation below). Trained beautician and masseuse Jolanta Ronikier and her team will provide a fully tailor-made spa package.

Luxury

Hotel der Bär
High-calibre Relais & Chateaux hotel, located above the resort, with a reputation for the best service standards and an excellent wellness centre.

Kirchbichl 9
Tel: (05358) 2395.
Website: www.hotelbaer.com

Moderate

Kaiserblick
Family-run slopeside 4-star hotel with plenty of space and a choice of suites.
 
Kirchbichl 5
Tel: (05358) 2230.
Website: www.tiscover.at/kaiserblick

Budget

Pension Maria Theresia
Friendly guest house, with clean rooms and a good breakfast, close to the village centre.

Kirchbichl 54
Tel: (05358) 2691.
Website: http://members.telering.at/maria-theresia

Nearest airports: Salzburg (SZG); Innsbruck (INN); Munich (MUC).Distance to resort: 70km (43 miles); 90km (57 miles); 120km (75 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour; 1 hour 15 minutes; 1 hour 30 minutes.

Nearest railway station: Kufstein.

Distance to resort: 25km (16 miles).

Driving time: 30 minutes.

www.skiwelt.at or www.wilderkaiser.info

Intermediates, Non-skiers, Families, Après ski, Beginners, Snowboarders