Niseko

If you're looking for heavenly ski conditions throughout the season there are few better places to head than Niseko. Up to 15m (49ft) of powder snow falls here each year. Facing the dormant volcano Mt Yōtei, also known as the Ezo Fuji for its resemblance to Mt Fuji, Niseko compares very favourably to similar European and North American mega-resorts in its range of facilities and runs.

Niseko United, the resort's umbrella name, actually combines three separate but interlinked ski areas: Grand Hirafu, Higashiyama and Annupuri Kokusai. In recent years it has become the place for skiers from Australia and New Zealand to head during the antipodean summer season; many are buying and developing land, particularly around  the resort's main town of Hirafu where the après-ski scene rocks.

The standard of accommodation is excellent with places available for all budgets from luxury lodges to backpacker dorms and youth hostels.

Resort elevation: 300m (984ft).

Top elevation: 1,309m (4,295ft).

Base elevation: 300m (984ft).

Number of lifts: 38.

Number of runs: 57.

Average annual snowfall: 12m (39ft).

Niseko is on Japan's main northern island of Hokkaido about 100km (62 miles) west of the capital, Sapporo. It is based on Mt Niseko Annupuri and is part of the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Quasi National Park.

The three main resorts (Niseko Grand Hirafu with the attached Hanazono resort, Higashiyama and Annupuri Kokusai) are spread around the mountain from east to west, with the main focus being the ski village of Hirafu, the base of Niseko Grand Hirafu. Kutchan, the area's main access town with a railway station, is a few kilometres northeast of Hirafu.

The season runs from late November until early May.

With nearly 50km (31 miles) of groomed slopes and many more off-piste opportunities, there's a ski run for everyone at Niseko. There are plenty of wide open areas of gentle slopes for beginners as well as halfpipes, mogul fields, tree runs and tabletops for more experienced skiers and snowboarders.

The longest run is 5.6km (3.5 miles) and you can go even further if you hike to the summit of Niseko Annupuri from the top chairlift. For those who prefer to get up the mountain quickly and protected from the elements, three gondolas glide to the upper slopes from each of the main bases. For something a little different, there are some runs where skiers are transported by snowcat.

The snow conditions here couldn't be better with practically guaranteed fresh powder (lots of it!) dumped each night. You can really make the most of your days here, too, as night-time skiing sees lifts running until 2100 daily. A single ski pass covers all four resorts or you can buy individual tickets to each resort.

There are a variety of ski schools or you can follow ski guides for backcountry adventures including telemarking and ice climbing; the large overseas population here ensures there are always English-speaking guides. Hire of good equipment is readily available. A couple of reputable outfitters are Niseko Adventure Centre and Niseko Outdoor Adventure Sports Club, both in Hirafu.

The volcanic activity that created Mt Yōtei also provides plentiful hot-spring spas (known as onsens) in and around Niseko. Try Popolo at Hotel Niseko Scot (next to the Grand Hirafu ski lifts); Yukoro (at the southeastern end of Hirafu village); or Makkari, which has an open-air bath with a view of Mt Yōtei.

Also at Makkari Onsen is Makkari Snowmobile Land (a few kilometres southeast of Hirafu) where you can take a snowmobile round a 6km (4-mile) course. Niseko Adventure Centre has a climbing wall at its Hirafu base. Japanese culture workshops, covering such things as the tea ceremony, are occasionally held at Lodge Grandpapa in Hirafu. 

Sapporo is an easy day trip away and is certainly worth visiting in early February when the famous snow festival (the Yuki Matsuri) sees giant snow and ice sculptures constructed around the  city. Another good day trip is to the charming seaside town of Otaru.

In recent years Niseko has been improving its provisions for families. Reduced-price children's and family lift tickets are available. Hotel Niseko Alpen (Niseko Grand Hirafu resort) has a crèche looking after children aged two to six.

Niseko International Snowsport School (Hanazono resort) has a variety of ski lesson and tour programmes for families and kids. At the Niseko Higashiyama Prince Hotel there's an amusement centre stacked with video games and so on.

The main shopping areas are Hirafu and Kutchan, the largest town in the region. Sakura in Hirafu (a block north of the village's main crossroads) is the best place to buy traditional Japanese souvenirs and crafts. For snow gear and other outdoor equipment try Niseko Adventure Centre (also in Hirafu).

There are no shortage of places to wind down with a beer or something stronger in Hirafu. Niseko Adventure Centre and Niseko Outdoor Adventure Sports Club both have attached cafe-bars, Pow Pow and JoJo's respectively, which are popular with the younger international ski crowd (both in Hirafu). Ab (Hotel Niseko Scot) is a hopping après-ski bar at the base of Grand Hirafu's slopes; it has different theme nights and DJs at weekends.

For something more sophisticated try Sekka, Hirafu's most stylish hangout, created by an expat Australian designer who has also constructed several top-notch self-catering properties around the village. Fattys is two giant snowbound lorries that form the shell for a lively late-night bar, while the very funky Gyu Hirafu is easily spotted by its door made from the front of an old Coca-Cola vending machine.

One of the best places to eat in Hirafu is Sekka (see Après Ski above), which serves fine Italian cooking with a modern Japanese twist. A good spot for breakfast or lunch away from the slopes is the bakery, cafe and bar Abucha (at the main intersection in Hirafu). Also not to be missed for its baked goods and sandwiches is Gruubünden (located just out of Hirafu on the way down to Kutchan). 

Set back from Hirafu's main drag is Bang-Bang which specialises in local fish dishes and yakitori (over 30 different types). Gentem, based in a Mongolian yurt (located just off the main road midway between Hirafu and Higashiyama), offers an unusual cross-cultural experience. South-East Asian dishes are served in a relaxed atmosphere with chilled world music in the background.

An All Mountain Pass allows you to ski between the three main resorts using all the lifts on the mountain. There are also shuttle buses from the base stations of the resorts linking each one up. Regular buses run out to Kutchan for train connections.

Some of Niseko's most luxurious accommodation is in self-catering apartments decorated to boutique hotel standards. Hokkaido Tracks (website: www.hokkaidotracks.com) based in Hirafu has the designer-lovely Yotei Tracks on its books.

Luxury

Hotel Kanronomori
Close to the Annupuri Kokusai lifts, this is a fine choice if you want to experience staying in traditional tatami mat rooms with all the trimmings.

415 Niseko
Tel: (0136) 583 800.
Website: www.kanronomori.com/e_index.html

Moderate

Hotel Niseko Alpen
With a great location next to the Grand Hirafu lifts, the Niseko Alpen offers mainly Western-style rooms and good facilities including a 25m (82ft) heated swimming pool. 

204 Yamada
Tel: (0136) 221 105.
Website: www.niseko-alpen.jp

Budget

Black Diamond Lodge
Convivial backpacker-style lodge run by young Japanese and foreign skiers that offers budget-end comfort plus a restaurant and bar.

24-3 Higashiyama
Tel: (0136) 441 144.
Website: www.bdlodge.com/english/index.html

Nearest airport: New Chitose Airport (CTS).

Distance to resort: 102km (63 miles).

Driving time: 2 hours.

Nearest railway station: Kutchan.

Distance to resort: 5km ( 3 miles).

Driving time: 15 minutes.

Beginners, Families, Snowboarders, Intermediates, Après ski, Snow reliability, Non-skiers, Experts