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Introduction
The world's original ski resort has long been the most famous. St Moritz made world headlines as a winter resort for the first time in 1864 when several intrepid British tourists accept a wager from an inspired St Moritz hotelier who bet them a free stay that, if they stayed through the snowy months, they'd enjoy it. Johannes Badrutt won his bet and the rest is history.
And an illustrious history at that. St Moritz has played host to kings, Olympic Games, presidents, World Championships, tens of thousands of animal furs and private jets, movie stars, world-class horse races on its frozen lake, and most imaginable luxuries in its ‘5-star deluxe' hotels and private clubs.
But, as with its twin town of Aspen, it's a mistake to think St Moritz is exclusively for the rich and famous. Yes, they keep a few places just for themselves, and quite a few of the others simply price out mere mortals, but St Moritz can be done on a budget. The huge Engadin ski domain isn't the cheapest lift ticket in Europe, but it's not the most expensive either, and affordable dining and lodging is there if you look.
And an illustrious history at that. St Moritz has played host to kings, Olympic Games, presidents, World Championships, tens of thousands of animal furs and private jets, movie stars, world-class horse races on its frozen lake, and most imaginable luxuries in its ‘5-star deluxe' hotels and private clubs.
But, as with its twin town of Aspen, it's a mistake to think St Moritz is exclusively for the rich and famous. Yes, they keep a few places just for themselves, and quite a few of the others simply price out mere mortals, but St Moritz can be done on a budget. The huge Engadin ski domain isn't the cheapest lift ticket in Europe, but it's not the most expensive either, and affordable dining and lodging is there if you look.
Mountain facts
Resort elevation: 1,856m (6,089ft).
Top elevation: 3,303m (10,836ft).
Base elevation: 1,750m (5,741ft).
Number of lifts: 56.
Number of runs: 88.
Average annual snowfall: 3m (10ft).
Where in the world?
St Moritz is located in the Engadin Valley in southeastern Switzerland, close to the borders of Italy to the south and Austria to the east.
Hit the slopes
The season runs from late November until early May.
St Moritz is part of the Engadin ski region which includes multiple ski areas above the Engadin Valley including those of St Moritz. Altogether the domain covers 350km (219 miles) of piste.
The main ski area directly above the resort is Corviglia which is reached by a state-of-the-art funicular, complete with solar panels to help generate power. There are runs for all ability levels here. A cable car carries on to Piz Nair, which provides access to the steep Men's World Cup downhill course.
The second nearest ski area is Corvatsch, a short bus ride away above Surlej, which offers the highest skiing in the region and more challenging terrain for better skiers.
A third ski area, Diavolezza, a 30-minute bus ride the other way, has some of the region's toughest runs including a 10km (6-mile) off-piste descent over the glacier back down to Morteratsch in the valley.
The ski area's altitude and extensive snowmaking mean it is snowsure throughout the season. There used to be a small summer ski area on the glacier but climate change and lack of interest put paid to that in 1999.
St Moritz is part of the Engadin ski region which includes multiple ski areas above the Engadin Valley including those of St Moritz. Altogether the domain covers 350km (219 miles) of piste.
The main ski area directly above the resort is Corviglia which is reached by a state-of-the-art funicular, complete with solar panels to help generate power. There are runs for all ability levels here. A cable car carries on to Piz Nair, which provides access to the steep Men's World Cup downhill course.
The second nearest ski area is Corvatsch, a short bus ride away above Surlej, which offers the highest skiing in the region and more challenging terrain for better skiers.
A third ski area, Diavolezza, a 30-minute bus ride the other way, has some of the region's toughest runs including a 10km (6-mile) off-piste descent over the glacier back down to Morteratsch in the valley.
The ski area's altitude and extensive snowmaking mean it is snowsure throughout the season. There used to be a small summer ski area on the glacier but climate change and lack of interest put paid to that in 1999.
Beyond the slopes
Nearly two-thirds of visitors to St Moritz in winter have no intention of skiing or boarding and are happy to take the lift up to a gourmet restaurant or take a sleigh ride across the frozen lake passing ice skaters and, if they time it right, perhaps a horse race, polo or cricket match or even show jumping on the ice.
St Moritz has both the famous Cresta Run (men only, due to old-fashioned chauvinism or old-fashioned chivalry, depending on your point of view - not that many women or indeed men would want to risk it anyway) and the only bobsleigh run still ‘handmade' out of natural ice each winter. It can claim to be the world's largest ice sculpture.
Other things to do include visits to the spas, cinema, museums, a game of indoor tennis, squash or a visit to the casino.
St Moritz has both the famous Cresta Run (men only, due to old-fashioned chauvinism or old-fashioned chivalry, depending on your point of view - not that many women or indeed men would want to risk it anyway) and the only bobsleigh run still ‘handmade' out of natural ice each winter. It can claim to be the world's largest ice sculpture.
Other things to do include visits to the spas, cinema, museums, a game of indoor tennis, squash or a visit to the casino.
Family fun
There are non-skiing childcare facilities in several of the hotels, typically operating between 0900 and 2100 with a break for lunch and free for guests. The nurseries in the Kulm (Via Veglia 18) accept children from age three and in the Kempinski (Via Mezdi 27) from three months to 12 years. Badrutt's Palace Hotel (Via Serlas 27) and the Hotel Schweizerhof (Via del Bagn 54) also have day nurseries.
The local ski schools accept children in special all-day classes, with indoor periods for younger participants, from age three. Several will pick up children from points in the resort.
The local ski schools accept children in special all-day classes, with indoor periods for younger participants, from age three. Several will pick up children from points in the resort.
Retail therapy
St Moritz is the ultimate destination for serious shoppers (and more people do that here than ski), and you're likely to rapidly melt your credit card, unless it's a black Amex one, at Armani, Versace, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Bulgari, Chopard and Pucci, most concentrated around Via Serlas. There are more than 150 shops all told.
St Moritz has an ever-increasing range of branded and licensed goods, rather like an upmarket Disney. Some can be bought online (website: www.stmoritz-store.ch) without even visiting, although where's the fun in that?
St Moritz has an ever-increasing range of branded and licensed goods, rather like an upmarket Disney. Some can be bought online (website: www.stmoritz-store.ch) without even visiting, although where's the fun in that?
Après ski
St Moritz has a wide range of bars and clubs including some of the most infamously exclusive, and thus expensive, night spots in skiing. But there are regular places too.
The Sunny Bar (Hotel Kulm, Via Veglia 18) is good for Cresta Run memorabilia and Secondo (Via Maistra) serves cool cocktails until 0400 and is the first bar to open for the day too, just three hours later.
If you haven't taken your skis off, you can return to the Corvatsch on any Friday evening for the weekly Snow Night. Switzerland's longest floodlit ski slope is open from 1900 through to 0200 with a party atmosphere.
The Sunny Bar (Hotel Kulm, Via Veglia 18) is good for Cresta Run memorabilia and Secondo (Via Maistra) serves cool cocktails until 0400 and is the first bar to open for the day too, just three hours later.
If you haven't taken your skis off, you can return to the Corvatsch on any Friday evening for the weekly Snow Night. Switzerland's longest floodlit ski slope is open from 1900 through to 0200 with a party atmosphere.
Eating out
St Moritz has 67 restaurants and though best known for the gourmet standards of its numerous sophisticated restaurants, it can cater for all tastes. You'll find Chinese, Greek, Swiss, Thai, Japanese, French and Italian all in the mix.
La Carnotzet (Hotel Laudinella, Via Tegiatscha 17) is a good choice for local specialities, with cheese for the raclette provided by a local farm.
Cà d'Oro in the Kempinski (Via Mezdi 27) is one of the 20-plus gourmet restaurants listed in the Gault Millau guide. Its Italian Mediterranean cuisine, innovatively interpreted, scored 15 points.
La Carnotzet (Hotel Laudinella, Via Tegiatscha 17) is a good choice for local specialities, with cheese for the raclette provided by a local farm.
Cà d'Oro in the Kempinski (Via Mezdi 27) is one of the 20-plus gourmet restaurants listed in the Gault Millau guide. Its Italian Mediterranean cuisine, innovatively interpreted, scored 15 points.
Getting around
Buses and trains link up the various villages and ski areas on the Engadin pass. Horse-drawn sleighs can be hired to act as taxis.
Splashing out
In St Moritz's case, not splashing out is the challenge. If you're a party animal, then a night in the infamous King's Club in the Badrutt's Palace 5-star hotel will set you back a few bob, and then some, but you are likely to be mixing with celebrities and lesser-known royalty.
Accommodation
Luxury
KulmThe world's original winter holiday hotel, rated ‘beyond 5-star'.
Via Veglia 18
Tel: (081) 836 8000.
Website: www.kulmhotel-stmoritz.ch
Moderate
Hauser Swiss Quality HotelCentral 3-star hotel run by the Hauser family for more than 50 years.
Via Traunter Plazzas 7
Tel: (081) 837 5050.
Website: www.hotelhauser.ch
Budget
St Moritz Youth HostelWell located, high-quality youth hostel, close to all facilities including the sports centre.
Stille Via Surpunt 60
Tel: (081) 833 3969.
Website: www.youthhostel.ch/st.moritz
Getting there
Nearest airports: Samedan (SMV); Zurich (ZRH); Milan (MIL).
Distance to resort: 7km (4.5 miles); 200km (125 miles); 200km (125 miles).
Driving time: 20 minutes; 3 hours 20 minutes; 3 hours 20 minutes.
Nearest railway station: St Moritz.
Distance to resort: 7km (4.5 miles); 200km (125 miles); 200km (125 miles).
Driving time: 20 minutes; 3 hours 20 minutes; 3 hours 20 minutes.
Nearest railway station: St Moritz.
Website
This resort is good for...
Snowboarders, Intermediates, Après ski, Environmental awareness, Non-skiers, Experts, Snow reliability
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