Courchevel

One of the best known resorts in France, and indeed the world, Courchevel is part of the world's largest fully lift inter-linked ski area, the vast Trois Vallées, with its 600km (375 miles) of pistes. It is also one of the highest and most snowsure ski resorts in the Alps.

The resort has attracted skiers since the 1930s but shot to prominence in the 1950s and 60s when it became a popular destination for the jet set. Half a century later that reputation remains and you can find the same calibre of hotel (the resort claims to have the highest concentration of luxury accommodation in the world), restaurants and shops that you would find in St Moritz or Aspen. In other words, the best there is.

However, it is possible to enjoy a ski holiday in Courchevel on the same budget as any other ski resort, if you avoid high price giveaway terms like ‘gourmet', ‘5-star' or ‘exclusive'. You might also choose to stay in one of the four villages below the main resort at 1,850m (6,069ft); known by their metric heights of 1650, 1550, 1300 and 1100 they are slightly downmarket of 1850, as well as down the mountain. They are all, however, well linked in to the lift network.

Resort elevation: 1,100m (4,265ft) to 1,850m (6,069ft).

Top elevation: Courchevel: 2,707m (8,881ft); Trois Vallées: 3,230m (10,597ft).

Base elevation: 1,300m (4,265ft).

Number of lifts: Courchevel: 63; Trois Vallées: 182.

Number of runs: Courchevel: 117; Trois Vallées: 333.

Average annual snowfall: 5.3m (17ft).

Courchevel is located in the Savoie Alps of southeastern France, close to the Swiss and Italian borders.

The season runs from the beginning of December to the end of April.

With 150km (93 miles) of piste, the Courchevel Valley makes up ‘just' a quarter of the Trois Vallées ski area, but this local area on its own has much more than most resorts offer.

Beginners need not pay out for a lift ticket from day one as there are a dozen lifts operating free of charge for first timers on nursery slopes by the resort's various bases. They can then progress on to ideal terrain (wide blues and greens) further up the ski area.

Average ability skiers will find more lift-linked skiing for them in Courchevel and the Trois Vallées than anywhere else on the planet, with over 250 blues and reds. It's worth noting that the lifts are all now powered by renewable energy as the area is one of the greenest, as well as the biggest, ski areas.  

Experts also have a huge choice, including the famous ‘Ugly Sisters' couloirs and steep mogul fields like Jean Blanc. Heli-skiing over in to Italy, off-piste tours and many other advanced-level ski activities can be organised through the local ski schools or mountain guides office.

Staying outdoors you can try ice climbing, snowshoeing, quad biking, skijoring (being towed behind a horse while wearing your skis), ice karting, toboggan runs, snow rafting or just take a sleigh ride.

You can paraglide or hang-glide above the resort or take a helicopter, balloon or scenic plane flight (with the option of learning to fly the plane yourself).More unusual opportunities include a cultural tour of the resort; cookery courses with Michelin-rated chef Michel Rochedy; or you can learn a language in a resort where some 60 different nationalities are normally present.

Indoors, The Forum at 1850 has an Olympic-sized ice-skating rink, 13m- (45ft-) high climbing wall, squash courts, games room and a bowling alley. Spa facilities are available at multiple locations.

From 18 months upwards, children can be cared for by the Ecole de Ski Français (ESF) at their nurseries at 1850 and 1650. Here they can discover the joys of playing in the snow and, for the most adventurous, the first thrills of skiing. A full list of nurseries and childminders is available from the tourist office.

When the lifts close, toboggan runs are set up in front of the resorts; the longest is 2km (1.2 miles) down from Courchevel 1850. After 10 minutes of descent through the forest, tight bends and many thrills and potential spills, you reach Courchevel 1550, from where you take a fast lift back up.

The Forum has a rope swing and ‘mini-guides' course for children. There's also a specially designed bowling alley for children aged five and over. The cinemas show family films in school-holiday periods.

With more than 150 shops, Courchevel is a shopping paradise, with the majority of stores concentrated in the main 1850 resort. As you would expect given its upmarket reputation, these include the kind of designer fashion, jewellery, lingerie and perfumery boutiques you would find in the most exclusive districts of Paris, London or New York.

Among these are Christian Dior (place du Tremplin), Napapijri (Espace Diamant), Quiksilver (Le Forum, niveau -1) and jewellers Julian Joailliers (Espace Diamant) for your Rolex. There are of course plenty of ordinary shops too.

Courchevel is too sophisticated and too French to get terribly rowdy, although there are lively bars to be found on occasion, especially in 1850 where most of the nightlife is concentrated. The three night spots, which can stay open to dawn, although more often 0400, are all in 1850. La Grange (rue Park City) and Les Caves (porte de Courchevel) are the best choices.

In the bar scene, Le Piggys (rue de la Croisette, 1850) has a lot of ambience and is usually busy whilst Le Purple Caffé (porte de Courchevel) aims for a more sophisticated image.

There are more than 60 places to eat around Courchevel, with the majority located in 1850, particularly the gourmet options.

Le Chabichou (rue des Chenus, 1850) is one of two restaurants listed in elite gastronomical guide books. Chef Michel Rochedy provides inventive cooking with meals served in the wonderful dining room or, if you don't want to mix with the riff-raff, a private lounge.

There are of course many other dining styles on offer elsewhere in the resort including pizza, Mexican and fest food. For traditional French crêpes, or Alpine fondues and raclettes, La Crêperie du Moulin (place du Tremplin, 1850) is a good choice.

A free shuttle bus service runs around and between Courchevel's various villages. In some cases it is also possible to take gondola lifts between villages. For many years the resort has been giving ever greater prominence to pedestrians and endeavouring to reduce motor traffic through road improvements and increasing underground parking.

Courchevel's Animation Services (website: www.animationservices.net) can organise amazing treats and feats limited only by your imagination, and budget. Their ‘Declaration of Love' concept involves a series of 20 increasingly wonderful surprises, many set against spectacular mountain scenery, with the aim of leaving the man, or woman, in your life, lost for words (in a good way...).

Luxury

Le Kilimandjaro

One of nine luxury hotels in Courchevel 1850, the Kilimandjaro has 30 rooms and suites spread between seven linked chalet-style buildings with facilities that include a first-class spa.

route de l'Altiport
Tel: (04) 7901 4646.
Website: www.hotelkilimandjaro.com

Moderate

Hôtel & Résidence du Golf
A 3-star property in Courchevel 1650, well located by the ski runs, lifts and all resort amenities.

rue du Marquis
Tel: (04) 7900 9292.
Website: www.hoteldugolf-courchevel.fr

Budget

Hotel Les Tovets
Affordable lodging in 1850, now offering Wi-Fi and some rooms with flatscreen TVs.

rue du rocher
Tel: (04) 7908 0333.
Website: www.courchevel-hoteltovets.com

Nearest airports: Chambéry (CMF); Geneva (GVA).

Distance to resort: 110km (69 miles); 141km (88 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 20 minutes; 2 hours.

Nearest railway station: Moûtiers.

Distance to resort: 23km (14 miles).

Driving time: 30 minutes.

Environmental awareness, Non-skiers, Experts, Après ski, Snowboarders, Snow reliability, Intermediates, Families