Rusutsu

Downhill skiing has been big in Japan for almost a century, since Austrian pioneers were imported to train local ski instructors. Winter sports boomed in the country in the 1980s but an economic downturn 15 years ago combined with the rise of the video-game culture left many of the country's 600+ ski areas in financial difficulties.

In recent years however a new market of skiers from Australia, and now the UK, has revived the fortunes of some of the best Japanese resorts. Lift ticket prices, once the most expensive in the world, are now cheaper than at any major resort in Europe or North America and practical problems for English speakers 20 years ago, such as all signage in Japanese, are gradually being dealt with. 

Rusutsu (the owners of which, during Japan's ski boom, also owned Tignes in France, Heavenly in California and Steamboat in Colorado), is a full-service slopeside resort with a large hotel complex containing all amenities, and doorstep skiing.

The giant Rusutsu Resort Hotel offers 761 rooms and resort-scale facilities on top, including dozens of shops and restaurants. You do have the option of staying in log cabins, imported from Canada, using timber first imported from Finland. 

Despite its low altitude by the standards of Europe's Alps or the Rockies, Rusutsu is particularly well known for its remarkable natural snowfall. Snowmaking is banned in Japan, but that's not a problem for the island of Hokkaido, which is on the same latitude as the European Alps, and regularly accumulates a metre (3.3ft) of snow on its beaches. Indeed the only complaint has been ‘too much snow', with some visitors complaining of snow falling for weeks on end.

Resort elevation: 286m (938ft).

Top elevation: 994m (3,261ft).

Base elevation: 286m (938ft).

Number of lifts: 17.

Number of runs: 37.

Average annual snowfall: 8.4m (28ft).

Rusutsu is located in the southwest of Japan's most northerly island, Hokkaido.

Thanks to the legendary snowfall, the season runs from early December until late April.

Rusutsu's ski area is spread across three mountains, with skiing directly above the resort on West Mountain, or you take a gondola ride to the majority of terrain spread across East Mountain ands its lift-linked neighbour, Mt Isola, which together have about three-quarters of the 42km (26 miles) of runs.

There is skiing for all ability levels, and in common with most major Japanese ski areas (in contrast to Europe), all lifts are either chairlifts or gondolas. There are easy (green classification) trails close to the resort, but also runs to progress onto further away from the complex. English-language ski lessons are available.

Intermediates will find all the resort's terrain open to them and advanced skiers and boarders should be pleased with more challenges than most Japanese ski areas offer. This includes off-piste terrain (Rusutsu has a reputation for untracked powder lasting longer than at other major Japanese areas) and tree skiing. There's a halfpipe and night skiing on West Mountain.

On the snow there's cross-country skiing, snow rafting (riding down the slopes on large inflatable rafts), snow tubing, orienteering, ice skating and dog sledding.

Indoors include the chance to try traditional Japanese methods of bread baking and Japanese crafts.

The hotel also features indoor tennis courts, pool with wave machine, amusements, a games room and a carousel ride.

You can also try traditional Japanese hot-spring onsen baths.

Japanese ski resorts traditionally did not offer a lot for families, concentrating instead in near-24-hour ski lift operation for determined skiers with little else besides. Rusutsu, however, has an indoor nursery for children from birth to six years old. 

Rusutsu is actually rather a good choice for families because of the safe and convenient  nature of the giant complex, easy-to-ride lifts, high service standards, affordable dining (Italian, fast food and other international dishes are available if required) and non-ski family fun activities.

All of Rusutsu's shopping is within the hotel complex, concentrated in a central retail mall. This manages to accommodate 28 stores so most needs can be met. Local products include wood and leather crafts.

Après ski is low key but you may like to start the evening with a visit to the traditional onsen baths (men and women shower and bathe separately in the communal volcanic pools then may meet up in a mixed-sex thermal pool). Or you might opt for a traditional Japanese tea ceremony in the Tea Lounge Dolce (2nd floor, North Wing), or visit one of the karaoke rooms for a bit of a knees up.

There are half a dozen bars and night spots in the hotel including the Oktober Fest bar (1st floor, North Wing), or for sports events check out the bar named after the one sport you're unlikely to see here, Cricket (1st floor, South Wing). The Kakashi Tavern (1st floor, Original Building) has a relaxed atmosphere and the ‘beer hall' Lamp House (front of Original Building) is also a good place to mellow out. Local beers are served and prices are very reasonable.

‘Eating In' is a more accurate description for Rusutsu with the resort's 12 restaurants all located within the large hotel building. However the resort does manage to offer a great range of cuisine from the four corners of the world and many guests on package tour half-board deals can eat at a different establishment each night. 

For traditional food from the local Hokkaido region served in the Japanese style, try Sekkatei (3rd floor, North Wing). Kazahana (2nd floor, Rusutsu Tower) also specialises in Japanese cuisine using the fresh and natural ingredients Hokkaido is known for but in a more Western-style dining room. Or to venture a little further afield on your culinary travels and a few floors up in the hotel, Kanten (4th floor, North Wing) is a Chinese restaurant.

Other choices include Bon Appetit (1st floor, Rusutsu Tower) or the Belle Vue (4th floor, South Wing), the latter in art deco style, for French food. Italian is offered at the Costa Terrazza (1st floor, North Wing), and other international dishes are available in the hotel's other restaurants.

As all facilities are concentrated within the one large complex, there is no need for transportation to get between facilities, all of which can be easily reached on foot.

A day trip to provincial capital Sapporo is a worthwhile trip and relatively easy by bus, although best accompanied by a Japanese speaker. The annual Snow Festival (website: www.snowfes.com) sees the creation of amazing snow carvings the size of large buildings (usually held in February).

Moderate

Rusutsu Resort Hotel
This hotel is rated 4-star, can accommodate more than 2,000 guests simultaneously, and has a remarkable range of facilities on site. The hotel is divided into four main sectors. Rusutsu Tower has the best accommodation, offering only extensive suites. The East and West Wings offer more conventional hotel rooms but with traditional Japanese futon beds and Tatami matting floors. The fourth option is Canadian-built log chalets.

13 Izumikawa
Tel: (0136) 463 111.
Website: www.rusutsu.co.jp

Nearest airport: Sapporo New Chitose (CTS).

Distance to resort: 100km (63 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.

Experts, Snow reliability, Beginners, Families, Intermediates, Snowboarders