Locations don't come much better than Banff, which is set amidst the jaw-dropping scenery of the Canadian Rockies. The town was named after its Scottish counterpart in 1884, and the surrounding national park established a year later. It wasn't long before skiing took off, when Swiss and Austrian mountain guides arrived in 1909.

The local skiing in Banff is split over two areas - Ski Norquay, which lies just beyond the town, and Sunshine Village, 20 minutes' drive away. Most visitors ski at nearby Lake Louise too.

With no shortage of shops, bars and restaurants, even non-skiers can enjoy a winter holiday in Banff. One downside is that you have to drive to reach the ski areas, unless you stay at the only hotel at Sunshine (which was expanded for the 2009-10 season). Another factor to be aware of is that temperatures can plummet; skiers used to sunny European resorts should be prepared for the cold. Watch out for elk too - there are 1,000 of them in the area and you might spot them strolling along the streets!

Resort elevation: 1,397 (4,940ft) (Banff town).

Top elevation: Norquay: 2,133m (7,000ft); Sunshine: 2,730m (8,954ft).

Base elevation: Norquay: 1,630m (5,350ft); Sunshine: 1,660m (5,440ft).

Number of lifts: Norquay: 5; Sunshine: 12.

Number of runs: Norquay: 28; Sunshine: 107.

Average annual snowfall: Norquay: 3m (10ft); Sunshine: 10m (33ft).

Banff is located in the western Canadian province of Alberta, 120km (75 miles) west of Calgary. It is situated 16km (10 miles) inside Banff National Park in the Rocky Mountains.

Norquay's season runs from mid November (usually at weekends only), then full time from December until mid April. Sunshine's runs open from mid November until late May.

Norquay is small with just a handful of lifts, and marginally less snowsure than Sunshine, but it's handy for town. There are runs for all levels, but only really enough to keep you busy for a day. Advanced skiers can test their mettle on several steep and challenging mogul runs, Upper Lone Pine and Gun Run being two of the best. Night skiing is popular on Fridays from January to March.

Sunshine's excellent snow record makes it a good bet for early- or late-season skiing. A modern gondola transports you from the car park up to the day lodge, where mainly high-speed lifts fan out to three mountains - Goat's Eye (intermediates and up only), Lookout and Standish.

Beginners will enjoy cruising along Banff Avenue, a wide, easy green run, with several fun offshoots. Intermediates might choose to ride the Continental Divide chair on Lookout mountain where you have the added thrill of crossing into British Columbia on the way up, then skiing back into Alberta on the way back down down. Expert skiers can drop into the super-steep Delirium Dive or recently opened Silver City (but only if equipped with transceiver, probe and shovel).

For freestylers both resorts have popular terrain park's, Sunshine's the larger with over 20 rails, boxes and tabletops.

The ski and snowboard schools run lessons for all levels. Equipment hire is available at many outlets in town or at the bases.

The Tri-area lift ticket also allows skiing at Lake Louise, which is about 45 minutes from Banff.

If you don't ski, or fancy a day off the slopes, Banff has plenty of other winter activities. Outdoors, you can try snowmobiling, dog sledding, ice climbing, ice fishing and cross-country skiing. You can head underground on a cave tour or up to the sky on a helicopter tour. Five minutes from town, Banff Gondola whisks you to the summit of Sulphur Mountain, with spectacular views of the Rockies.

Soothe your aches in the historic Banff's Upper Hot Springs, Mountain Avenue. The temperature in the outdoor pool, which sits in front of a restored 1930s bath house, is kept between 37 and 40˚C (98 to 104˚F).

Indoors, there's a bowling alley, cinema, and a few small museums and galleries. The Banff Park Museum, Banff Avenue, offers a good introduction to the region's wildlife. The Banff Centre, St Julien Road, puts on cultural performances, exhibitions and concerts.

Norquay's ski school offers lessons for ages six to 12 and ‘ski 'n play' for ages two to five. At Sunshine, the Tiny Tigers Daycare accepts children from 19 months to six years. Young skiers can join the Tiny Tigers Ski and Play (ages three to six) before progressing to Kids Kampus (ages six to 12). The ski school also runs special classes for teenagers.

Off the slopes, you can take the kids on a sleigh ride, or they can splash about in the indoor water park at the Douglas Fir Resort, Tunnel Mountain Road, with its pool and two slides (open to non-residents).

In Banff you can find everything from international names (Gap, Helly Hansen, Nike etc) to independent boutiques, bookshops, sweet shops and jewellers. And there's certainly no shortage of gift shops for stocking up on T-shirts, stuffed elk and maple syrup.

At Mountain Chocolates, 200 Banff Avenue, you can pick up ‘bear paws', made of cashews and caramel dipped in chocolate.

Snowboarders should check out Rude Boys, 215 Banff Avenue, or its female spin-off, Rude Girls, 203 Caribou Street, for gear and clothing.

Banff is a party town, with numerous bars to choose between. The Rose & Crown, 202 Banff Avenue, serves Canadian beers and cocktails, and has live music nightly.

For a Wild West flavour and late-night partying, head for Wild Bill's Legendary Saloon, 201 Banff Avenue. On Wednesdays you can try calf roping and line dancing, while Thursday is karaoke night.

Banff has an eclectic mix of eating options. Whether you're after affordable pizza, burgers or sushi or something more upmarket, you're likely to find it.

Evelyn's Coffee Bar, 201 Banff Avenue, is a great place to grab a home-made muffin and a hot drink while you're waiting for the ski bus.

Taste Albertan AAA-grade beef at Melissa's, 218 Lynx Street, which offers a good-value steak dinner. The award-winning Maple Leaf, 137 Banff Avenue, sources fresh seafood from both Canadian coasts; you can also sample specialities such as bison stroganoff or organic game from local farms.

Most places in Banff are within walking distance of each other, but it can become bitterly cold at times, so if you're not staying bang in the centre, you might prefer to grab a taxi. Some hotels run shuttles.

A public bus runs between the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel, Banff Avenue and Tunnel Mountain, at the far end of town. A ski bus runs between various points in town and the ski areas (including Lake Louise); this is free if you buy a Tri-area lift pass.

Cheer on the Calgary Flames ice-hockey team at the Calgary Saddledome. Tours include pick-up from your hotel in Banff, transport, hockey ticket and guide. Available through Banff Adventures Unlimited (www.banffadventures.com).

Luxury

Fairmont Banff Springs
The magnificent Banff Springs, based on a ‘Scottish baronial castle', has been welcoming guests since 1888. The current building dates from the 1920s. The 3,500-sq-m (38,000-sq-ft) Willow Stream spa boasts a 32m (105ft) indoor saltwater pool and year-round outdoor pool.

405 Spray Avenue
Tel: (403) 762 2211 or 1 800 257 7544 (central reservations).
Website: www.fairmont.com/banffsprings

Moderate

Mount Royal Hotel
Well located in the centre of town, this hotel has comfortable rooms and suites, with a restaurant and pub on site.

138 Banff Avenue
Tel: (403) 762 3331 or 1 877 442 2623.
Website: www.mountroyalhotel.com

Budget

Red Carpet Inn
Affordable motel-style accommodation just a couple of blocks from Banff's shops and restaurants. All rooms have free Wi-Fi.

425 Banff Avenue
Tel: (403) 762 4184 or 1 800 563 4609.
Website: www.banffredcarpet.com

Nearest airport: Calgary (YYC).

Distance to resort: 140km (88 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.

www.banffnorquay.com or www.skibanff.com or www.banfflakelouise.com

Beginners, Environmental awareness, Families, Snow reliability, Experts, Intermediates, Snowboarders, Après ski, Non-skiers