Fernie

When new lifts were installed in the late 1990s, Fernie's ski area was transformed from local hill into international resort. Yet wandering the streets of this coal-mining town, with its saloon bars and early-20th-century main street, conjures up images of pioneer days.

The skiing is based a few kilometres from Fernie itself and a purpose-built slopeside village has grown over the past decade. Visitors can base themselves in either - the town has more character, but staying in the resort avoids the daily drive up to the mountain.

Fernie boasts an impressive snow record, and its slopes are less crowded than the likes of Banff or Whistler. This resort is a good bet if you're looking for powder and small-town Canadian charm.

Resort elevation: 1,010m (3,314ft) (Fernie town); 1,068m (3,503ft) (Fernie resort).

Top elevation: 1,925m (6,316ft).

Base elevation: 1,068m (3,503ft).

Number of lifts: 10.

Number of runs: 107.

Average annual snowfall: 8.8m (29ft).

Fernie is located in western Canada, in British Columbia's southeastern corner. The town lies in the Elk Valley, in the Lizard Range of the Rocky Mountains. Fernie is around 60km (40 miles) from the Alberta and US borders, and a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Calgary.

The season runs from mid December to mid April.

Skiing is spread out across five bowls. Most beginner runs are on the lower half of the mountain and are wide and well groomed. On the frequent powder days, Fernie's bowls open up an array of opportunities for intermediates and above, with widely spaced trees to weave through. There are only a few groomed runs from the top however, so, unless you're a fan of moguls, skiing becomes more limited when conditions are icy or hard-packed. For experts, there's no shortage of gnarly steeps and chutes spilling off the ridges separating the bowls.

Snowboarders can check out the rail park; there's a kids' version too for mini riders.

There are a couple of high-speed chairlifts, but travel on slower lifts is necessary to reach much of the terrain.

Fernie Winter Sports School offers private and group skiing and snowboarding lessons. There are also several specialist camps. Equipment hire is available at the base.

Aside from skiing and boarding, Fernie offers the usual winter resort activities, including cross-country skiing, sleigh rides, dog sledding, snowshoe safaris and snowmobile tours. Or try the very Canadian pursuit of ice fishing.

Day trips are possible to the nearby Bavarian-themed ski resort of Kimberley, or across the border to Whitefish (formerly Big Mountain) in the USA.

Children aged three and up can join ski lessons. Childcare is available at the Cornerstone Lodge by the base for children up to six years old.

On Wednesday and Saturday evenings, the resort organises a Kids Night Out including dinner and activities such as tobogganing, snow football and storytelling.

Another fun après activity is the mid-mountain barbecue on Friday nights, followed by a guided torchlight descent down the Elk Run.

Fernie could hardly be described as a shopper's paradise, but the town's main drag, Second Avenue, has a few interesting shops. Alberta brand Frozen Ocean (571A Second Avenue) specialises in silk-screened T-shirts and hoodies. A few blocks away, the Edge of the World Board Shop (902 Sixth Avenue) is a snow and skate store, indoor skate park, Internet cafe and Mexican diner rolled into one.

At the foot of the mountain, the Griz Bar is the place to go for a drink at the end of the day, with live music on weekend afternoons. In town, the Fernie Pub (691 First Avenue) is popular with locals and tourists alike, with pool tables, live bands and a DJ at the weekend. The Central Bar (206 Third Street, corner of Second Avenue) is open daily until 0100 with nightly drink specials.

There's a reasonable selection of eateries both at the resort and in town. Next to the slopes, Kelsey's Bar and Grill serves pasta, pizza and all-American fare, while the Lizard Creek Dining Room (see Accommodation below) offers gourmet dining.

Downtown, the Royal Hotel (501 First Avenue) dishes up delicious pies and Australian cuisine in a fabulous historic building. Elsewhere, you can choose from sushi, steaks, fish and chips and more.

During the day, a ski bus travels regularly between the town and the slopes (for a charge). A free evening shuttle bus runs between the resort and the town.

A shuttle runs on Tuesdays to Kimberley ski resort.

Stay in a luxury wilderness lodge at Island Lake Resort, a short drive west of Fernie, and indulge in some of Canada's best cat skiing. You can normally expect to ski 10 to 15 runs each day, before treating yourself to a relaxation massage or alpine foot and leg treatment in the lodge's spa (website: www.islandlakeresorts.com).

Luxury

Lizard Creek Lodge
Ski-in, ski-out suites and condos, with fine dining, spa, heated outdoor pool and hot tub.

5346 Highline Drive, Fernie Alpine Resort
Tel: (250) 423 2057 or 1 877 228 1948.
Website: www.lizardcreek.com

Moderate

Fernie Stanford Resort
Located at the edge of town near the turn-off for the ski slopes, this hotel has several room types (including family rooms), a spa, swimming pool, outdoor hot tubs and, its pièce de resistance, a 51m (166ft) indoor water slide.

100 Riverside Way
Tel: (250) 423 5000 or 1 877 423 5600.
Website: www.ferniestanfordresort.com

Budget

Fernie Log Inn
This is a little further from the resort, but offers good value in six simple, but comfortable rooms. Facilities include a Thai restaurant, outdoor hot tub and transport to the slopes.

141 Commerce Road
Tel: (250) 423 6222 or 1 877 733 7643.
Website: www.fernieloginn.com

Nearest airports: Cranbrook (YXC); Calgary (YYC).

Distance to resort: 105km (65 miles); 337km (209 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 15 minutes; 3 hours 30 minutes.

www.skifernie.com or www.fernietourism.com

Experts, Snowboarders, Beginners, Snow reliability, Intermediates, Families