Courmayeur

Courmayeur offers skiing with a dash of real Italy. It is an enchanting little mountain town of cobbled piazzas and slate roofs, with sensational views over the Mt Blanc massif. There are fashion boutiques, delicatessens hung with salamis and local cheese, fragrant cafes frothing with cappuccinos, and more bars and restaurants than you would believe. Between skiing and dinner, fur and Gucci-clad Milanese parade in a nightly passeggiata, along pedestrianised Via Roma.

A giant, 130-person cable car from the edge of town swings up to Plan Checrouit, the main ski lift centre. Here you can leave shoes, bags or anything else at lockers in the ski hire shop, to collect on your way down. Another cable car connects from Entreves, next to the Mt Blanc tunnel entrance, and a gondola leaves from Dolonne. The skiing is more remote from town than in many resorts.

Resort elevation: 1,224m (4,016ft).

Top elevation: 2,763m (9,065ft).

Base elevation: 1,210m (3,969ft).

Number of lifts: 17.

Number of runs: 24.

Average annual snowfall: 7m (23ft).

Courmayeur is at the head of the Aosta valley in the Italian Alps. It is in the lee of the 4,810m (15,780ft) Mt Blanc (the highest mountain in Western Europe) and is the first village on the Italian side of the Mt Blanc tunnel.

The season usually runs from mid December until mid April.

Skiing is on the Colle Checrouit and Val Veny valleys and not extensive, though there are enough red and blue runs to keep an intermediate in variety for a long weekend. The few black runs and mogul fields are short, but the lures for experts are the off-piste routes reached by cable cars up to Cresta Youla, Cresta d'Arp and the Vallée Blanche.

Snowboarders are lured by the 500m (1,640ft) boardercross run near the top of the Plan de la Gabba chairlift.

The slopes above Val Veny face north, and keep their snow well. Snowmaking is extensive throughout the pisted area. 

For more sedate skiing, there are 35km (22 miles) of gentle cross-country trails along the Aosta valley floor.

The indoor Forum Sport Centre (Via della Stadio) has a huge skating rink, and curling. It also offers indoor tennis, squash, a golf driving range, climbing wall, gym and sauna.

The six linked cable cars over the Mt Blanc to Chamonix in France, comprise perhaps the most spectacular cable car journey in the world.

Courmayeur is not the ideal family resort, but La scuola di sci & snowboard Monte Bianco (Strada Regionale 51) segments children by age as well as ability. The school also offers a crèche and kindergarten service for infants from six months, through to 12-year-olds, at Plan Checrouit.

With just about every designer clothing name from Milan having a presence on Via Roma, the main shopping street, Courmayeur is a fashionista's heaven. There are also numerous wine and speciality food shops.

Après ski begins on Via Roma with freshly squeezed orange juice and vodka amid loud music at the American Bar, or cocktails and (free) canapés in the back room of the Caffé della Postal.

The best nightlife is 3km (2 miles) up the valley at La Palud by the Mt Blanc tunnel entrance, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Jimmi's (Hotel Astoria, Frazione La Palud 23) is loudest, open latest and attracts the 18-30 crowd; Maquis (Strada della Brenva 10, Entreves) plays 1970s and 80s music and has a greyer clientele.

In Courmayeur centre, the latest and liveliest disco is Poppy's (Via Circonvallazine 48).

Maison Vieille (Col Checrouit) is a cosy, piste-side mountain refuge with a roaring log fire and steaming plates of polenta and local sausage served by the effusive owner Giacoma.

Christiania (Plan Checrouit) has an igloo bar, and hot pasta and pizza.

Pierre Alexis (Via Marconi 54) provides Courmayeur's top gourmet experience, with a six-course ‘Hunters' tasting menu.

There are timetabled, though not very regular, buses from the town centre to Entreves and Dolonne. There is no bus to the Plan Checrouit cable car, but some hotels run courtesy minibuses - otherwise it is a walk.

Courmayeur is one of the few places in the Alps where heli-skiing is still offered. You are picked up from the piste, so there is no wasting time. Single or multiple drops available through Società Guide Alpine (website: www.guidecourmayeur.com).

Luxury

Royal e Golf
Luxuriously appointed rooms, sauna, Turkish bath, fitness centre and outdoor hot tub.

Via Roma 87
Tel: (0165) 831 611.
Website: www.royalegolf.com

Moderate

Hotel Pavillon
This hotel has an excellent location near the cable car, friendly staff and a good swimming pool.

Strada Regionale 62
Tel: (0165) 846 120.
Website: www.pavillon.it

Budget

Hotel Bouton D'Or
A small bed and breakfast run by friendly Andrea and Patricia Casale Brunet offering rustic décor, baths and fantastic views.

Strada Statale 26
Tel: (0165) 846 729.
Website: www.hotelboutondor.com

Nearest airports: Geneva (GVA); Turin (TRN).

Distance to resort: 108km (67 miles); 142km (88 miles).

Driving time: 1 hour 15 minutes; 1 hour 30 minutes.

www.courmayeur-montblanc.com or www.aiat-monte-bianco.com

Intermediates, Snow reliability, Experts, Après ski, Non-skiers, Snowboarders