Davos

With a population of 12,000 and an urban sprawl stretching 4km (2.5 miles), Davos adopts the guise of an uninspiring town rather than a prime ski resort. But that changes when you take account of the mountains looming over the town from both sides of the valley, and the numerous shades-wearing, ski-hauling visitors. In fact, Davos is acknowledged as the birthplace of European downhill skiing, and today the skiing is rated among Europe's best.

Other incomers include global movers and shakers attending the annual World Economic Forum meeting, and visitors attracted to the town's health and spa facilities.

It was as a health resort that Davos first achieved international prominence, attracting up to 2,000 cure seekers per night in the 19th century. However, skiing gradually became the bigger draw, aided by Arthur Conan Doyle's description in 1894 of his skiing adventures here.

Resort elevation: 1,560m (5,118ft).

Top elevation: 2,844m (9,331ft).

Base elevation: 1,100m (3,609ft), or 834m (2,657ft) including Küblis.

Number of lifts: 56 (Davos/Klosters).

Number of runs: 99 (Davos/Klosters).

Average annual snowfall: 3.1m (10.2ft).

Davos is tucked away in Graubünden, the least accessible and perhaps the most parochial of the Swiss cantons. It's a region where Alpine peaks and valleys dominate. The Prättigau Valley connects Davos to Landquart, the main junction for routes north (Zurich) and west.

The season runs from mid November until mid April.

The Davos/Klosters region offers varied runs for all ability levels. Most of the more demanding runs are at lower elevations, within the trees, where the valley sides are steepest. In all, there are five distinct ski areas, served by an extensive lift system.

The largest and busiest is Parsenn, which peaks at the 2,844m (9,331ft) Weissfluhgipfel. From here, a 12km (7.5-mile), 2,034m (6,673ft) descent runs to Küblis, but this is only navigable when the snow cover is at its most extensive. Jakobshorn across the valley is favoured by snowboarders, and has a boardercross obstacle park.

Off piste, it's possible to ski as far as Arosa, but this is a major undertaking, entailing three hours' hiking and three hours return by train.

Davos offers plenty of variety away from the slopes, such as 75km (47 miles) of cross-country trails and 84km (52 miles) of winter hiking routes. Skaters can choose between four locations, including Europe's largest natural rink occupying 18,000 sq m (193,750 sq ft) in the Sports Centre (Eisbahnstrasse).

Sedentary options are more limited, though there are spectator sports, extensive spa facilities, and the Kirchner Museum (devoted to the expressionist painter) on Promenade.

Davos is not an ideal place for learning to ski, though the town does offer a choice of ski schools. The Swiss Snowsports School (Promenade 157) offers classes for those aged three and up, and has a kindergarten. Other options for families include the indoor swimming pool at Kongressplatz, the eau-là-là heated outdoor/indoor pool (Promenade 90) with a water slide, and the Sports Centre on Eisbahnstrasse.

You can buy anything you might need in Davos. Shops, including chic and pricey boutiques, are strung along the main thoroughfare, Promenade.

Most bars and clubs are in the Davos Platz area. Ex Bar (Promenade 63) offers drinking and music all night long. Young disco divas head for the adjoining Cabanna Club in the Hotel Europe (Promenade 63), while snowboarders slide over to Bolgenschanze (Skistrasse 1).

Bolgen Plaza (Skistrasse 26) sometimes has live music. The Hotel Europe's piano bar (Promenade 63) caters to an older set.

There are copious choices if you don't have a half-board deal at your hotel. Restaurant Panorama (Promenade 80) lives up to its name, with fine views from its terrace. Portions are sizeable and seafood is favoured.

For inexpensive regional and Swiss cooking, try Hotel Ochsen's Stubli (Talstrasse 10) or the restaurants in Hotel Dischma (Promenade 128). Gourmet food is served up without pomposity in the rustic environs of the Hotel Flüela Stubli (Bahnhofstrasse 5).

Buses serve the urban centre and ski lift stations, and these are free to those staying in Davos. Though Promenade is nominally a one-way street (direction Dorf to Platz), buses are permitted to travel along it in both directions. If you ski over to Klosters and don't have time to get the lifts back, the train takes 25 minutes.

For the ultimate indulgence, try a health/spa treatment at the Arabella Sheraton Hotel Seehof (Promenade 159). In addition to the expected sauna, solarium and massage, there are mountain mud baths, seaweed Alga packs, and other exotica.

Alternatively, consider spending the night in an igloo on the Parsenn (website: www.iglu-dorf.net).

Luxury

Morosani Schweizerhof
Child-friendly hotel, with art-nouveau décor, a swimming pool, and attentive staff who go out of their way to please.

Promenade 50
Tel: (081) 415 5500.
Website: www.morosani.ch

Moderate

Club Hotel
Though unappealingly box-like from the outside, Club Hotel has a convenient location, good facilities, and decent deals for dinner.

Promenade 23
Tel: (081) 414 91 00.
Website: www.clubhotel.ch

Budget

Hotel Edelweiss
Family-run, friendly, and in a quiet locale, this hotel has pleasantly presented rooms, some with balcony.

Rossweidstrasse 9
Tel: (081) 416 10 33.
Website: www.edelweiss-davos.ch

Nearest airport: Zurich (ZRH).

Distance to resort: 160km (100 miles).

Driving time: 2 hours 15 minutes.

Nearest railway station: Davos Platz and Davos Dorf stations are 2 hours 20 minutes from Zurich.

Snowboarders, Non-skiers, Snow reliability, Environmental awareness, Après ski, Families, Intermediates, Experts