St Isaac's Cathedral, St Petersburg
© Creative Commons / Jsolomon
Things to see in St Petersburg
City Tourism Information Centre
Sadovaya ulitsa 14
Tel: (812) 310 2822.
www.visit-petersburg.com
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 1000-1900, Sat 1200-1800.
This office has a large stock of free city maps and brochures and can provide advice on tours and excursions. Most hotels can also provide local information. Look out for copies of the free quarterly St Petersburg Travel Pages and the smaller St Petersburg in your Pocket.
The twice-weekly English language paper The St Petersburg Times (www.sptimes.com), found in coffee shops, restaurants and hotel lobbies, provides largely uncensored news and plenty of information about cultural events in the city.
There are no tourist passes currently available in St Petersburg.
Designed by the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the glorious baroque Winter Palace of Empress Elizabeth is famous as the setting for Russia's finest collection of art and antiquities. The collection was founded by Catherine the Great in 1764 and has since expanded to cover 3 million works, which are lavishly displayed in the galleries of the Winter Palace and the linked Small Hermitage and Large Hermitage. Highlights include works by Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Gogh, Matisse, Gaugin, Rodin and many of the French Impressionists. The interior of the museum is extravagantly decorated with gilded ceilings, marble colonnades, elegant statuary, crystal chandeliers and intricate mosaic floors - the flamboyant styling reaches its zenith in the famous Jordan Staircase. It would take around 10 years to tour the Hermitage, spending just one minute at each exhibit, but the 90-minute guided tour of the highlights provides a convenient overview. Entry is free on the first Thursday of each month.
Commissioned by Tsar Alexander I to build a spectacular imperial cathedral, French-born architect Auguste Montferrand executed a masterpiece of engineering on the marshy ground. Completed in 1858, the gilded dome of St Isaac's Cathedral still dominates the skyline of St Petersburg, though Alexander and his successor were dead long before it was completed. The interiors are dazzling, with malachite and lapis lazuli columns, mosaic icons, painted ceilings and, in the sanctuary, the large stained-glass Resurrected Christ. The climb to the colonnade of the dome (accessible on a separate ticket) is rewarded by marvellous panoramic views over the city. The church became a museum of atheism during the Communist years, but church services are now held here on special occasions.
Modelled after the famous St Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, the Church on Spilled Blood was built on the spot where Emperor Alexander II was assassinated, on 1 March 1881, by socialist radicals. The richly ornamented exterior of colourful enamelled domes, gilded mosaic panels, ceramic tiles, and stained-glass windows with intricately carved arches is matched by the gleaming marble and glittering mosaics of the interior, which has been stunningly restored to repair the neglect of the Soviet years.
Launched in St Petersburg in 1900, the Cruiser Aurora played a significant role in the major events of Russian history in the first half of the 20th century. After serving in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-5, the cruiser fired the shot at the Winter Palace in 1917 that signalled the storming of the palace and the beginning of Bolshevik rule. The Aurora was sunk during the Siege of Leningrad in 1941 but raised again 1944, and refitted as a museum in the 1950s. Inside you can see the crew's quarters and the gun that fired the historic shot, but the exterior with its huge chimneys and mounted guns is just as impressive.
The oldest state museum in all of Russia, the Museum of Anthropology and Ethnology is centred on the cabinet of curiosities assembled by Peter the Great during his grand tour of Europe. Although the museum has numerous exhibits on people and cultures from around the world, the collection of physically abnormal foetuses preserved in alcohol is what draws in the crowds. The collection is best for visitors with an intense scientific curiosity, as well as a strong stomach.
The first house built in the newly founded St Petersburg in 1703 was not a grand palace but a humble wooden cabin, from where Peter the Great supervised the construction of his grand imperial city. Now encased in a protective brick enclosure and furnished with period furniture, its spartan simplicity is a strange contrast to the grand cathedrals and palaces that surround it. Peter lived here between 1703 and 1708 and some of his belongings remain, including his boat, his compass and his icon of the Redeemer.
Peter the Great laid out the plans for the Peter and Paul Fortress on Zayachy Island in 1703 to defend the area from the Swedes, but it soon became a political prison. Among the famous prisoners to be held here were Dostoevsky, Gorky and Trotsky, as well as Peter's own son, Alexei. The bleak cells have been converted into a museum, along with the Commandant's House where prisoners were tried. The highlight of the fort is the imposing Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul, whose soaring gold spire is visible from all over St Petersburg. For an additional fee, you can enter the cathedral to see the gorgeous baroque interior and the surprisingly modest tombs of Russia's pre-revolutionary leaders, from Peter the Great to Nicholas II. The bell tower can only be visited on an organised tour. You can also buy a ticket to walk along the fortress walls for stunning views over the Neva River towards the Admiralty and Hermitage.
Far from being a mainstream tourist attraction, Piskarivskoye Memorial Cemetery is a place of pilgrimage for the dwindling survivors of the 1941-44 siege of Leningrad. A visit here is all the more poignant for this reason. Below large grassy mounds, under the gaze of a massive bronze of Mother Russia, lie the mass graves of 500,000 St Petersburg citizens who starved to death in the Nazi blockade. The story of the suffering and endurance of the city is powerfully told in the Memorial Halls.
The State Russian Museum is often overshadowed by the grand Hermitage, but the sprawling galleries contain the world's finest collection of Russian painting, from thousand-year-old icons to old masters and modern legends like Malevich, Kandinsky and Chagall. The museum was established in 1895 in the Mikhailovsky Palace (another exquisite Carlo Rossi creation) but it has since expanded to cover the Benois Wing and the beautifully restored Marble Palace, Stroganov Palace and St Michael's Castle. Russian Impressionists are particularly well represented, as are the artists of the Revolution and the great propaganda artists of the Soviet era. There is an additional charge for the galleries outside the Mikhailovsky Palace and Benois Wing.
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