Venice Carnivale is a huge attraction
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Things to see in Venice
Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT, Tourist Board of Venice)
Giardini Ex Reali, San Marco (Venice Pavilion)
Tel: 041 522 5150.
Website: www.turismovenezia.it
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1730.
Other tourist offices are located at the railway station and on the Lido, at Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta.
The Venice Card is available in 12-hour, 48-hour and week-long packages. It offers free public transport, entry to museums and galleries and discounts on selected parking, excursions and shops. The card is available from railway stations, tourist information offices and online (tel: 041 2424; www.hellovenezia.com).
The Chorus Pass (tel: 041 275 0462; www.chorusvenezia.org) includes entry to 16 of Venice's churches, including the spectacular Frari church and Palladio's Santa Sede Redentore. The pass is valid for one year and is available for purchase at the tourist office and from participating churches.
The glorious gothic Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, constructed around 1330, is primarily associated with the name of Titian, Venice's painter son who is buried here, alongside the city's celebrated sculptor, Antonio Canova. Titian made his reputation and crowned his early years by painting the huge altar piece, The Assumption of the Virgin, for the Franciscan brothers of the Frari in 1518. Titian also executed the painting over the Pesaro family altar in the north aisle. The inclusion of the flag and Turk in the painting alludes to Bishop Pesaro's victory over the Turks at Santa Maura. Titian's tomb, located in the south aisle, faces the large marble pyramid created for Canova, depicting St Mark's lion paying homage to the dead sculptor. Ironically, the design, executed by Canova's pupils, was based on Canova's own plans for a new monument to Titian.
The golden Byzantine St Mark's Basilica was founded in the ninth century as a shrine for the relics of St Mark. Built on a plan of a Greek cross, its Eastern appearance is enhanced by golden mosaics, originally created by craftsmen from the Byzantine court at Ravenna. The interior houses many of Venice's greatest treasures, including the venerated icon of the Madonna Nicopeia. The golden screen behind the high altar - the crypt in which St Mark is supposed to be buried - is the Pala d'Oro, beautifully crafted with sapphires, emeralds and rubies and inset with enamels from Constantinople. Before leaving St Mark's, visitors should pause to admire the 12th-century pavement, a resplendent mosaic of glass and marble.
The bell tower, which is located to one side of St Mark’s Square, is the tallest structure in Venice and offers a unique view of this fabulous city. At 318 ft (97m) high, visitors prepared to make the lengthy climb can look out over the rooftops of the city. In a strange twist, the view from the top can be good enough on a clear day to catch a glimpse of the distant dolomites, but doesn’t allow for a view of any of the canals. The tower collapsed in 1902 and was rebuilt exactly as before.
Many of Venice's greatest paintings remain in the buildings for which they were created, but the most important art gallery, the Accademia, is still worth a visit. Housed in the former church of Santa Maria della Carita and the adjoining Scuola, the collection first opened in 1750. Oils were the favourite medium of the Venetian masters. Frescoes, popular on the mainland, were unsuited to the damp, salty climate of the lagoon and soon perished. Instead, oils painted on wood or canvas (long used in Northern Europe) were exploited to new limits, with the artists demonstrating an unusual sensitivity to colour and light, no doubt partly influenced by the play of light on the lagoon.
The small paintings in rooms 4 and 5 are some of the finest in the collection. Giorgione's Tempesta, depicting a naked mother and child sheltering under a stormy sky against the ruins of an ancient city, is full of mystery. The larger canvases by Titian, Tintoretto and Veronese in room 10 should not be missed either. Titian painted the Pieta for his own tomb, demonstrating his extraordinary ability to create light with his palette. Veronese's bawdy picture, entitled Feast in the House of Levi, was originally painted as The Last Supper but the artist was forced to change the title after charges of indecorum.
This museum is the location of a vast collection of mosaics and textiles which are an important part of Italy’s architectural and cultural history. Discarded mosaics are lovingly restored here in a studio dedicated to the art, and enormous traditional woollen tapestries, woven on one of the earliest evidenced looms, hang on display in the arched hallways.
The Doges' Palace (once home to the elected leader of Venice, the Doge, as well as the city's political nerve centre) is a must-see attraction in Venice. A merging of Islamic and Gothic styles, the facade dates from 1365. The interior is more Renaissance in style, dating mainly from the 16th century. The first floor is predominantly made up of the Ducal apartments which are still home to some exemplary paintings by Titian and Bellini. The Palazzo also houses ancient prison cells and an armoury.
Peggy Guggenheim's collection of modern art is probably the most distinguished in Italy. The wealthy American heiress (a generous benefactor who helped promote Jackson Pollock amongst others) built up her collection between 1938 and 1947. Following the exhibition of the collection at the 1948 Venice Biennale, she bought the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, where she lived until her death in 1979, leaving her estate to the Solomon Guggenheim Foundation. The collection spans Cubism, European Abstraction, Surrealism and early American Abstract Expressionism, with works by a wide variety of artists, including Pollock, Picasso, Kandinsky and Dalí. The sculpture garden is particularly fine and enjoys lovely views over the Grand Canal.
The Bridge of Sighs is an architectural masterpiece that linked the Doge’s palace to the prison cells on the opposite side of the small canal. There is thought to be a romantic notion that lovers would find eternal happiness by kissing under the bridge at sunset. The truth behind the name comes from the sighs heard as prisoners crossed the bridge to a former prison, catching a glimpse of the world for the final time. Casanova was one of the famous prisoners to cross this bridge, although he was fortunate to leave the prison alive.
Venice is located on Rialto Island, the name of which is derived from the Latin rivus altus, meaning high bank. In the 10th century, a market developed spontaneously on the adjacent island and so, in 1264, the first wooden bridge linking the two landmasses was built. This wooden bridge collapsed in 1444 from the weight of crowds watching a wedding procession. It was replaced in 1588, by Antonio da Ponte's design, for the current single-stone arched bridge we see today. It is lined with tiny shops, most of which are tourist related, but was originally the location for the Merchant of Venice to peddle his wares. Until 1854, this was the only point at which the Grand Canal could be crossed on foot.
During the Middle Ages, the large Dalmatian (Schiavoni means 'Slav') population in Venice provided labourers for building ships and sailors for the Venetian fleets. Forming a charitable guild in 1451, they moved their seat to the School of St George in 1480, under the patronage of the Knights of Malta. Vittore Carpaccio, himself of Istrian origin, painted a series of celebrated and brilliantly imaginative canvases, between 1502 and 1508. Located in a dark hall on the ground floor since 1551, the canvases depict scenes from the lives of the guild's patron saints - St George, St Tryphone and St Jerome. Based on tales from The Golden Legend, the images depict St George killing the dragon, St Jerome welcoming the lion into the monastery, the funeral of St Jerome and the revelation of the death of St Jerome to St Augustine. Carpaccio's canvases demand attention through a combination of drama and extraordinary detail.
The renown of the School of St Roch, one of the many lay fraternities established in Venice for charitable works, is the series of masterful canvases by Jacopo Tintoretto that decorate its interior. Founded in 1478, the school was dedicated to St Roch, following a particularly vicious outbreak of plague. Tintoretto won the commission to decorate the entire Scuola in 1564 and spent the next 23 years doing so. The ground floor holds a series of large canvasses depicting scenes from the Life of the Virgin. In the upper hall, connected by Scarpagnino's staircase, are representations from the Old Testament on the ceiling and New Testament on the walls. The art critic and famous Victorian thinker, John Ruskin, reserved his greatest praise for the Sala dell'Albergo, where the chapter met. On entering the room, the visitor is confronted with the stunning expanse of Tintoretto's Crucifixion along the breadth of the opposite wall, one of the world's great works of art.
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