The best bar in town, Caffe Filippini has been serving cocktails to a cultured-up crowd since 1901. Sit in the classic wood-pannelled interior or at outdoor tables and try the house speciality, the Filippini cocktail, a mixture of vermouth, gin, lemon and ice. Friday and Saturday night the bar is full to bursting. For something more leisurely come for a pre-lunch café coretto (coffee with grappa).
Unlike Venice, its more conservative neighbour, Verona has a healthy but mature nightlife scene. Surrounded by wine-growing regions and host of Italy’s largest annual wine fair, visitors will find bars and traditional osterie (inns) are plentiful. Many also host live music at the weekends.
Verona’s club scene, however, is modest. A handful of late night spots dot the fringes of the city and many are small in contrast to the mega-clubs of Rome and Naples. Their doors usually open at 2230 and fill up after midnight.
Instead of clubs, Verona offers concerts by the bucket-load. The summer opera and theatre festivals fill the town with visitors, and there’s a year-round programme of music, theatre and dance at the city’s numerous theatres and historic monuments.
For more information seek out the Spettacoli section of the local paper, L’Arena, or visit the tourist office.