Review: New Steine Bistro, Brighton

Published on: Thursday, April 21, 2011

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With the madness of the Brighton marathon filling the seafront streets and the masses of people celebrating the startling 19ºC (66ºF) weather on the pebble beach, you were hard pressed to find a quiet place to relax in Brighton.

Fortunately, the New Steine Bistro provided just that. After a long day of soaking up the sun, my friend and I headed over for dinner. We walked along the seafront, past the Brighton Pier, to New Steine Street and found the quaint hotel, a five-storey Georgian townhouse, only a stone’s throw away from the water, across from a charming park. We were weary and sun burned when we arrived. But we were quickly directed to sit at a table near the bar and given a menu to look over until we could be seated.

The bistro was cosy with light-coloured walls and cushioned booths to match, dark-wood tables and chairs, and colourful cushions. We sat near the large bay window that provided a distant view of the water. Our waitress promptly came to address any questions we had before taking our orders.

I had the pan-fried red mullet with cinnamon butter with rice, while my friend had the Scottish sirloin steak and chips.

Before the main course, we had appetizers of vegetable soup and pork pâté with warm toast. The pork pâté was enjoyable, and warm toast nicely crispy. The staff were friendly and the whole place had a friendly, local feel. There wasn’t a long wait between courses, and I quickly tucked in to a moist dish of red mullet. The cinnamon butter and rice combination really worked.

My friend’s Scottish sirloin steak had a great taste and the chips were thin, crunchy and scrumptious.

There was a bit of struggle cutting the steak with a not-quite-sharp-enough knife that caused a small, slightly embarrassing moment, but our waitress kindly brought over an alternative.

My crème brûlée was delectably creamy, yet light with a delicately caramelized top. The cappuccino ice cream was refreshing with a well-balanced flavour. Overall, the staff is astoundingly attentive and hospitable. The setting and appearance is charming and relaxing. A good option for winding down after a busy Brighton day.

New Steine Bistro
10-11 New Steine, Brighton, BN2 1PB
Tel: (01273) 681 546.
Website: www.newsteinehotel.com/restaurant-brighton.asp
Prices for a three-course meal for two people, excluding drinks, starts from around £25.