On a sunlit summer's evening in London, there are few more pleasant places to be than on the terrace at Babylon, The Roof Gardens' 7th floor restaurant. Sitting 30m (100ft) above the frantic shoppers of High Street Kensington, and boasting panoramic views over the capital, animated tables of stylish clientele and an equally manicured trio of gardens just below, Babylon offers truly delightful dining.
Looking down upon the charming English Woodland garden, one of the venue’s three famous patches of greenery designed by architect Ralph Hancock, we accept our waitress’s recommendation of a sparkling pink rosé from Kent, and take in the still evening amid pristine wood and crisp white tablecloths. Inside, shimmering lime green furnishings and soft recessed lighting offer a fresh and modern dining area, exceptionally well tended to by a slick operation of waiting staff.
Any doubt that Babylon might rely on its strikingly unique setting to impress customers vanishes with the arrival of our starters: crab cocktail, a tender portion of Cornish crab atop a pool of avocado and lime purée, and the other, a perfect pair of plump sautéed diver scallops with a sprinkling of smoked bacon on a firm bed of crushed peas and broad beans.
Equally as refreshing as these clean, colourful dishes and rooftop surrounds, is the simplicity of Babylon’s menu: a single page of well-conceived and supremely executed dishes, meaning less time menu-trawling, and more spent taking in the skyline.
A chilled glass of Gewurztraminer from Babylon’s extensive wine list complimented my sea bass main perfectly, the punchy white wine cutting through the dish’s brased fennel and pernod sauce, without overpowering the accompanying black olive tapenade.
My partner’s roast lamb rump, sliced and served with an aubergine chutney, spring onions and Madeira jus, came glisteningly tender, and new potatoes and a fresh tomato salad to share were the ideal summery accompaniments.
After filling up on fresh ingredients, a decadent dessert seemed a rite of passage, and the sweet-toothed will find much happiness in the Babylon dessert selection: an array of delectable bites from the restaurant’s perfected desserts, including a light and fluffy lemon meringue tart, sugary rum cake, creamy panna cotta, and a devilishly chocolaty chocolate marquise.
Those preferring a savoury end to the evening can choose between a selection of British cheeses, or a mixed cheese board for two, both accompanied by Orkney oatcakes, apple chutney, fresh grapes and celery.
Impressed to the last, we left Babylon with the sun setting over London and The Roof Gardens’ club – a popular haunt of the rich and stylish – beginning to fill. Heading back down to street level in the smoothest and quietest lift known to man, and waved off with a friendly cheerio from the door staff, it was clear this place really is outstanding, from start to finish.
Babylon Restaurant
The Roof Gardens
99 Kensington High Street, London W8 5SA, UK
Tel: (020) 7368 3993
Website: www.roofgardens.virgin.com
