Chaotic, crowded and down-right crazy, Delhi frazzles the senses of first-time visitors with a predictable jolt. Stifling humidity, traffic-clogged roads, tooting horns, wandering cows and streets swirling with people add up to one explosive culture shock. What can tourists expect as the city prepares to host the Commonwealth Games for the first time in October 2010?
Undeniably, the sense of anarchy has cranked up several notches as a building frenzy has turned parts of the city into a construction site. However, once the dust settles, visitors should benefit from better transport links, including an expanded metro system; newly spruced up monuments and a made-over Connaught Place, the city’s central shopping hub. Haggling over cab fares should also be easier, thanks to a government bid to teach taxi drivers English in the run up to the Games.
Love it or loathe it, Delhi is indisputably one of the world’s most vibrant destinations. Packed with historical buildings, temples, bazaars as well as top-class hotels, restaurants and nightlife, Tina Banerjee gives you the low-down on some of the must-sees in the Indian capital.
Eye candy
Akshardham Temple
This flawlessly constructed pink stone and white marble temple looks centuries old but in fact was just built in 2005. I was captivated by its soaring pillars, ornate domes, sweeping arches and intricate elephant carvings and statues. Thanks to its setting amid neatly landscaped gardens and a lotus-shaped pond, it’s a small oasis of tranquillity in Delhi’s urban jungle.
Old Delhi
Enclosed by a formidable wall, the Red Fort dominates the heart of Old Delhi. Spend a few hours wandering around this impressive array of 17th-century buildings built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan for his family and courtiers. Nearby, the bazaars of Chandni Chowk offer a claustrophobic tangle of narrow, crowded alleys teeming with rickshaws, cycles, cars and pedestrians. If you’re tempted to shop here, like me, beware. It’s an exhausting experience that will challenge even the most brave-hearted traveller.
India Gate
This 42m-high (138ft) memorial was built by the British to commemorate the deaths of 90,000 soldiers who died during WWI. It is a popular picnic spot but is also worth visiting at night when illuminated. Enjoy the long walk down Rajpath boulevard, lined with acres of green space, to Parliament House. The National Museum covering 5,000 years of Indian history, Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory and Lodhi Garden are all nearby.
Retail therapy
Dilli Haat
Plunder this wonderful outdoor crafts market in south Delhi for its 200-plus stalls offering high-quality, ethnic goods from around the country. Look out for jewellery, bags, sarees, clothes, paintings, artwork and carpets. Haggling is acceptable – start from one third of the asking price. There’s also 25 food stalls selling a selection of regional and international dishes. I tucked into a plate of delicious Chinese vegetarian schezuan with fried rice costing around 90p. Bargain.
Khan Market
Fashionable young Delhi-ites flock to this smart clutch of shops featuring international brands such as Reebok, Adidas and Body Shop alongside more alluring home-grown fare. Among the best are Amrapali, a jewellery emporium selling exquisite silver and gold pieces; Anokhi specialising in hand-printed fabrics and modern ethnic wear; and Kala Niketan, offering a delirious choice of shoes for the well-heeled.
Select CITYWALK
I was smitten by this gleaming behemoth in Sakhet where western-style brands jostle alongside Indian designers for attention. From clothes to homeware, there’s plenty to satisfy die-hard shoppers. Landscaped exteriors, a cinema, restaurants, bars and cafes offer additional distractions.
Food fetishes
Khan Chacha, Middle Lane, Khan Market
This hole-in-the-wall joint is something of an institution proven by the nightly queues of office works, high rollers, tourists and rickshaw drives keen to sample its melt-in-the-mouth meat kebabs. Veggies aren’t ignored either – my paneer tikka masala roomali (creamy, delicately spiced Indian cheese wrapped in paper-thin tortilla) was sublime. With prices from 90p, these foil-wrapped goodies are lip-smackingly cheap, filling and tasty.
Big Chill, Middle Lane, Khan Market
This two-floor eatery adorned with retro film posters wouldn’t look out of place in London. Friendly staff and an extensive menu offering pizza, pasta, smoothies, sundaes and irresistible-looking cakes delivered in generous, belt-loosening portions make this a winner.
Sancho’s, E3, Third Floor, South Extension II
Sizzling fajitas, enchiladas, nachos and burritos are among the delights of this traditional Mexican eaterie situated in hip and happening south Delhi. Knock back a tequila or two and soon you’ll be limbering up for the on-site salsa classes. If you fancy something more hard core, you’re a stone’s throw from Café Morrison, one of the city’s best rock bars.
Drinking dens
The Living Room Café and Kitchen, 31 Hauz Khas Village
This late-night drinking lair and restaurant is a relative newcomer but is fast attracting a loyal crowd of musicians, expats and passing tourists. Chill out to a musical medley, ranging from reggae and raga to soft rock and soul. Its three floors heave at the weekends with energetic dancers but you can always escape the sweaty masses by battling your way to the fourth-floor terrace for a breath of the city’s sultry night air.
Tonic Bar and Lounge, Asian Games Village, Siri Fort Road
Busiest at happy hour when you can line up half price cocktails between 1500 and 1930. Popular with the smart, after-work set, this comfortable, dimly lit bar is definitely a good place to kick off a long evening. Service can be slow but the mojitos are worth waiting for. A tempting array of bar snacks will also help soak up all that alcohol.
