The Crown at Woodbridge, Suffolk

Published on: Friday, June 4, 2010
The Crown at Woodbridge, Suffolk - feature

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Just two hours away from the hustle and bustle of central London is the magnificently revamped Crown at Woodbridge: a chic riverside bolthole perfect for a relaxing weekend escape, as Coralie Modschiedler discovers.

The Crown is über cool. Standing on the corner of Woodbridge’s main street and a couple of minutes’ walk from the River Deben, it’s hard to believe this freshly painted collection of 17th-century townhouses used to be a grubby old pub.

As we walk in and absorb the bright and modern interior – created by renowned London-based designer David Bentheim – I’m immediately captivated by the rowing skiff suspended above the long, dark oak bar (which serves prosecco and Aspall cider on tap). The bar/lounge area has a very homey feel with large wooden tables covered with newspapers and magazines, comfy sofas by the chimney and soft Italian lighting. When we arrive it is time for an early Saturday night drink, and a mix of locals, business travellers and groups of friends are already gathering around the bar.

A discreet staircase leads us upstairs where the loud chatter magically disappears as soon as the door shuts behind us. The unique design and luxury boutique feel continues upstairs where not only the rooms impress, but also the corridor itself – a long stream of greys, whites and browns flooded with light and cleverly decorated with seaside nets and rowing oars.

One of only 10 designer bedrooms, room seven is a haven of peace and quiet, decorated in soft and relaxing seashore colours, unique Bentheim furniture and quirky, rustic touches, such as pitchforks doubling as coat hooks, and a wall covered in wicker. Modern comforts here come with an extra touch of luxury – Hypnos mattress, plump goosedown pillows and fine cotton bed linens. The bathroom is just as cool with a large free-standing bath, rainforest shower, under-floor heating and French toiletries.

The attention to detail, the quality of the furnishings and the extra touches show how much effort and passion went into renovating this 400-year-old inn. The driving force behind the astounding rebirth of The Crown is chef-patron Stephen David – the man who transformed The Crown into a luxury riverside retreat as well as a foodie destination in its own right.

As we head downstairs for dinner, the crowds have doubled and a lively atmosphere has filled the entire floor. The seasonal menu is vast (with sections including ‘chilled shellfish’, ‘meat’, ‘on toast’ and ‘charred’ – perhaps one too many) and offers a mix of hearty yet sophisticated British food using top quality ingredients from local artisan producers.

I follow the house manager’s recommendation of crab cakes served with a chilli, soy sauce and ginger dressing to start, while my partner goes for smoked eel. The food is well presented and offers a delicious and refreshing mix of flavours – well deserving of their two AA rosettes. Mains of Suffolk lamb and beef are equaly tasty, but the portions are perhaps too generous – my partner’s beef came with giant chunky homemade chips, vegetables and fried onion rings. By dessert we are already full. Still, true to my sweet tooth, I order the chocolate brownie which proves, even for me, a bit too rich.

After a deep night’s sleep in an exceptionally comfortable bed, a generous Sunday breakfast is a treat. Again, portions are huge, and ingredients locally sourced. We just have enough time to walk along the riverside and soak up the sunshine before it’s time to head back to the capital.

A delightful market town with attitude, Woodbridge is famous for its atmospheric quayside, dominated by the Grade I listed whitewashed Tide Mill, as well as its shopping and café culture – The Crown now completes the picture.

The Crown at Woodbridge
Thoroughfare, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 1AD
Tel: 01394 384 242.
Website: www.thecrownatwoodbridge.co.uk
Price: Doubles start from £110, including breakfast.