Giraffe, Nairobi
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Travel to Nairobi
Flying to Nairobi
International flights to Nairobi land at Nairobi International Airport, about 15km (9 miles) from the centre of town. Kenya Airways, the national carrier, operates flights to Nairobi from France, Germany and the UK, as well as cities across Kenya and the region. Other major airlines serving Nairobi include Virgin Atlantic, Qatar Airways, Emirates and British Airways; fares peak from December to January.
Domestic flights operated by AirKenya and Safarilink fly from tiny Wilson Airport, about 3km (2 miles) from the centre.
Average flight time from the UK is nine hours. There are no direct flights from America, Canada or Australia – connect through Asia or the Gulf.
Travel by road
Kenyans drive on the left, although vehicles usually choose whichever bit of road is least pot-holed until they have to pass one another. Bus and matatu (minibus) drivers are notorious for risky overtaking – cautious, defensive driving is the most sensible policy. Watch for obstacles on the road and check your speed. Local people prefer to walk on the tarmac, particularly at night, and it pays to be wary of wildlife on the road at any time of day. Driving at night inside national parks is dangerous and officially prohibited. Additional considerations apply in the rainy season, when highways are blocked by flooding and the murram (dirt) roads inside the national parks become impassable.
In Kenya, a car indicating right does not want you to overtake, whilst a car signalling left is suggesting that it is safe to do so. Do not take this for granted though. A pile of leaves, sticks or rocks on the road usually indicates a broken-down vehicle ahead. Always stop at police checkpoints, indicated by tin drums and road spikes on the carriageway. Car-jacking does occur in Nairobi, though tourists and hired cars are rarely targeted. As a precaution, keep your doors locked and windows closed, particularly when stationary in traffic.
A valid national or international driving licence is required to drive in Kenya. Always request a full collision damage waiver and pay the additional fee to reduce the excess, as this can be almost as much as the cost of a new vehicle. Most rental firms can provide a driver for an additional fee. You will need a 4-wheel drive if you plan to drive on any dirt roads, including inside national parks. Stock up on water, food and spare fuel before heading into remote areas, and always notify people at the start and end point of your journey before you set off.
In Nairobi and other large Kenyan cities, official parking guards will watch over your vehicle for a nominal charge. Local teenagers offer the same service on an unofficial basis. In the event of a breakdown, contact the car hire company as soon as possible. Flat tires and minor mechanic problems (clogged air intakes, for example) can be quickly fixed by local mechanics.
Automobile Association of Kenya (tel: (020) 682 5060).
The most popular driving route for tourists is the A109, which runs southeast from Nairobi to Mombasa and northwest from Nairobi to Naivasha, Nakuru and the Ugandan border. The rugged A2 runs north to Nanyuki, Isiolo and Ethiopia, a journey of several days through challenging desert country.
From Mombasa – 7 hours; Nakuru – 3 hours; Naivasha – 2 hours.
Private bus companies offer frequent, fast (sometimes too fast!) services around the country. There are numerous daily services from Nairobi to Mombasa, Naivasha, Nakuru and the Ugandan border. Tickets should be reserved a day in advance and most companies have offices adjacent to the main station in the River Road district.
Akamaba on Lagos Road (tel: (020) 553 000; www.akambabus.com) is the largest company in the country and has the best safety record. Coastline Safaris on Accra Road (tel: (020) 217 592) and Scandinavian Express on River Road (tel: (020) 242 523; www.scandinaviagroup.com) are also well regarded.
Travel by rail
Kenya’s decrepit rail network dates back to the days of the Uganda Railway (aka the Lunatic Express), constructed by the British to link Lake Victoria to the coast.
The daily overnight service from Nairobi to Mombasa is popular with travellers, and first-class tickets include a berth, clean bedding and a meal in the delightfully faded dining car. Second-class berths are simple but adequate; third class (seating only) is not recommended. Theft is a minor risk so take your valuables with you whenever you leave your compartment. Officially, there is also meant to be at least one Kisumu train a week, but this train is often cancelled for months at a time.
Tickets can be purchased from travel agencies in Nairobi or directly from the train station on Station Road - look for the Upper Class Booking counter. There is a matatu (minibus) stand and taxi rank in front of the station for transport from the station to town. Alternatively, you can walk along Moi Avenue to the city centre.
Using 1950s rolling stock, Rift Valley Railways offers a limited train service between Nairobi and Mombasa, and occasionally between Nairobi and Kisumu, but neither service is particularly reliable, and only the Mombasa train is commonly taken by tourists.
From Mombasa – 13 hours at least; Kisumu – 15 hours at least.
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