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Nairobi Travel Guide

About Nairobi

Part bustling African metropolis, part explorers' camp, Kenya's capital Nairobi is an intoxicating blend of cosmopolitan culture, gritty, urban slums and thoroughly modern city life.

The gateway to some of the most beautiful stretches of wilderness in the world, Nairobi is never short of tourists, even if most are simply passing through to the Masai Mara in the west or the beaches of Lamu and Malindi in the east.

Founded by the British in 1899, the city began as a dusty railway depot beside a Masai water hole known as Enkare Nyrobi (meaning "cool water"), from which it drew its current name. Today it's one of the largest cities in East Africa and home to scores of international companies and organisations, among them the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP).

Commercial success has transformed what was once an isolated supply depot into a place of bustling central thoroughfares, 1970s tower blocks, gorgeous public parks and bustling shopping areas crammed with chic boutiques and street traders from all over Kenya.

While there's plenty to see in the city centre, including the imposing parliament building and the city's many galleries, the real excitement is found just outside city limits.

Just seven kilometres (four miles) from the city centre is the Nairobi National Park, where you can get close to lions, impala, wildebeest and elephants, the latter due to the presence of an elephant orphanage within the park, courtesy of the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.

Mount Kenya is also a four hour trip from the capital and day trips, although lengthy, are possible. Back in the city, slum tours have become an increasingly popular way to get a glimpse of Nairobi's grittier side, although many aren't as safe as tourists imagine.

Due to the activities of militant groups like Al-Shabaab, safety has become an increasingly pertinent issue when planning a trip to the Kenyan capital. They are primarily active on the land that borders Somalia though, with attacks upon the Capital rare due to tourist hubs being heavily protected.

Nevertheless, provided you take precautions when travelling at night and in poorer suburbs a visit to Nairobi can be an exhilarating experience, and it's well worth spending a few days exploring before heading out on safari.

Key facts

Population:
3,500,000
Latitude:
-1.283333
Longitude:
36.816667
A digital image at https://illuminoto.com

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Giraffe Manor

Where else in the world can you be woken in the morning by a giraffe peering into your bedroom window? Attached to the AFEW Giraffe Centre, this grand Edwardian manor is decked out with Karen Blixen's old furniture, and staying here feels like staying in a posh country home. Factor in fine food and wine and a personal chauffeur and it's easy to see the appeal.

Kenya Comfort Hotel

Well looked after, central and friendly, the Kenya Comfort Hotel offers decent facilities at a reasonable price. It's a secure hotel in Nairobi, and the rooftop lounge offers beautiful views over the city. The rooms are tiled, modern and clean, and there's a restaurant and bar if you don't feel like braving the city streets after dark.

Hotel Ambassadeur Nairobi

Standards have slipped slightly since the days when this tall tower hosted politicians and presidents, but it's still a cut above the competition. The comfortable rooms are well appointed, and there's a good bar and restaurant. It's a popular venue in Nairobi for weddings and conferences, so book ahead.

Sarova Stanley

One of the most historic hotels in Nairobi, the Sarova Stanley first opened its doors in 1902, and boasts a rich history of famous former guests, among them Ernest Hemingway. Rooms are well appointed and soundproof, and there's a gym, sauna, rooftop pool and bar. Don't miss out on the legendary Thorn Tree Cafe either, a travellers' haunt since British times.

Nairobi Serena Hotel

One of the more elegant options in Nairobi, this sophisticated place draws on influences from across Africa, and the interiors are full of tribal sculptures, textiles and wooden furniture. The spotless rooms have marble bathrooms and views over the grounds and lush gardens. There is also a swimming pool, health club and shops. Although the hotel itself is very secure, adjacent Central Park and Uhuru Park are not safe to walk around at night.

Central YMCA

This is a well-appointed, central hostel in Nairobi. Good-value rooms, reasonable food, swimming pool, tennis courts and an aerobics studio make this feel more like a small hotel, and you don't have to be male or Christian to stay here.