With its chequered floor, tiled walls and traditional selection of pintxos, the Cafe Bar Bilbao is as typical of the city as its name would suggest. But, although it was founded in 1911, it's far from staid. By about 2230 you can hear it across the Plaza Nueva as voices start to raise and discarded napkins litter the floor. The staff are exceptionally friendly.

El Huevo Frito (The Fried Egg) is one of Bilbao's most famous places. It is a tiny, cheerful, informal tapas bar in the new town where everyone flocks after work and throughout the evening. The staff are friendly and efficient – your beers and wine are always en route – and you can stuff your face on the bite-sized food. The banter often spills over into the street if you want some space.

Bilbao's oldest café, opened in 1871, was known until recently as Cafe Boulevard. It was a favourite of Basque writer Miguel de Unamuno and photographer Robert Capa, among other literary and artistic titans of the 1930s. Its new owners may have turned it into a gastrobar but with live piano music and bookcases advertising its literary heritage, they've done a good job of retaining its charm.

Cotton Club is an excellent Bilbao club for dancing, with a mixture of DJs and live pop and rock groups on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. It's a tiny place, so be prepared to be another sardine in the tin, but the atmosphere is happy and lively. Check the website calendar to find out who's playing. Take in the red and black decor and enjoy the immense choice of rums and whiskeys.

This nightclub offers four different rooms with four different music genres, depending on the nighgt - check the website for line-ups. The sound system is excellent and the crowd is young and lively. The organisers also run Art After Dark, a once-per-month event where DJs play after hours in the main atrium of the Guggenheim Museum.

Formerly known as Holiday Gold but recently refurbished and renamed New Holiday, this nightclub has DJs playing electro, pop and rock music. Thursday nights is student night. It's really popular and often crowded.

Bilborock is a handsome, deconsecrated 17th Century church that was bought by the town hall in the 1990s and turned into a centre for arts and culture. Its refurbished interior has great acoustics for all kinds of live music and also hosts experimental art projects, cinema and dance.

Kafe Antzokia is Bilbao's best live music venue with a wide repertoire from Basque music to international pop-rock bands, world music and reggae. The former cinema was converted into a multi-purpose venue in 1995. It is best known for promoting the Basque culture, both as an artist's venue and for the clientele.

For bands that want to play at Rockstar, the big hair may not be obligatory but it certainly helps. The venue specialises in rock, punk and metal of all kinds, ranging from Metallica tribute acts to local bands still wet behind the ears. With its zebra print décor and MTV-style video wall, this is the best place in town for headbangers.